Archives for category: Food

I have been thinking this week about sugar.

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Yes, I know this is a strange thing to think about, but it was provoked by a fascinating video that I was sent by someone much wiser than me. “Sugar: The Bitter Truth” gives a very clear factual presentation on this ‘poison’. I use the words that Dr. Lustig uses because his arguments are very compelling. If you ever felt the need to drink even one can of cola, then this video will make you re-think immediately. Just watch the first 12 minutes to understand what it does to your body. I think I am instead going to play with my wonderful sodastream Christmas present, which to date I have simply used to make sparkling water, but there must be so much more that I can do to make wonderful naturally tasty, sweet drinks without all the hidden extras that come in the canned stuff.

Mind you, it is not only the drinks that we are in danger of misunderstanding – it is the diet stuff too. As we all embark on the obligatory January denial many of us will turn to low fat products believing that fat is the issue. I refer to Dr. Lustig’s video once more which shows that this is simply not true, and also my own very basic knowledge that we need some fat in our bodies to simply have an efficient metabolism. Low fat products are not only anathema but full of sugars to compensate for the lack of flavour coming through the fat. Read the labels. Look at low fat mayo compared to normal mayo and see what I mean.

Wharfe Valley rapeseed oil comes in all sorts of varieties

Wharfe Valley rapeseed oil comes in all sorts of varieties

So what can we do this year? Well the first thing is to just eat good simple food, prepared fresh in our own kitchens rather than the processed stuff which is full of the scary stuff. Keep it balanced with a palm sized piece of protein, good wholegrain carbs and lots of fresh veggies. Think about the good fats: omega 3 in oily fish or rapeseed oil rather than olive or vegetable oils, as rapeseed oil has about half the saturated fat found in olive oil and a fraction of that in palm oil. It’s a wonderful British product too.

And in terms of sugar, consider the alternatives. Honey is a wonderful thing and has so much more flavour and sweetness, as well as being incredibly trendy right now. There are a ton of fabulous honey products probably made in your very own region or from a rooftop or park near you, so search it out and experiment with it. Or, for my vegan friends (you know who you are) I want to make special mention of agave syrup which I first heard of through you when we looked for granola ingredients. Now it is in a supermarket near you and a lovely thing it is too. Don’t be put off by the fact it is made from the same plant that tequila is made. Instead embrace this wondrous product which is even sweeter than honey, full of flavour and originating back to the Aztecs. Those guys knew what they were doing.

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I am also experimenting with getting sweetness and flavour from fruit as these are wonderful natural alternatives, with apples, apple juice, prunes and many variations of citrus adding new dimensions into dishes as well as giving good fibre if you use the whole thing. My morning porridge is perfect with a handful of blueberries that I add before putting in the microwave so that they burst into the dish to make a juicy blueberry syrup in every mouthful without the need for any added sugar.

Finally, special mention should go to Stevia, which once again originates from South America. This is made from the leaves of the Stevia plant and is 25 times sweeter than sugar, but with no carbs and no calories. Why wouldn’t you? especially if you are using those horrid sweeteners that we now know are so bad for you. Just like agave syrup, this is widely available in all supermarkets so switch today. You know you should.

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Last night we welcomed in a new year from the Westminster rooftop of the lovely Mr Jones with fireworks and Champagne. It was a time to look back with a warm heart and full stomach at the new foods that we indulged on in 2012 and to contemplate how they will evolve in the coming year.

Foxcroft & ginger

2012 was a year of austerity and a time to nurture our souls with casual tasty foods that we know and love:

1. Snack food: toasted cheese sandwiches, designer hot dogs, southern chicken & burgers all served in dedicated casual eateries and on the street

2. Barbecue and smoked meats to give new flavour to cheap cuts

3. Noodles in all shapes and forms to make us feel healthy

4. The all embracing no reservations policy, much to the annoyance of many

5. Chicken, chicken and more chicken…proven to be the ultimate therapy

6. Gin in many and varied forms

7. Foraging: going back to the land

8. Peruvian food

9. Popcorn in all flavours

10: Bacon, served up both savoury and sweet, which will always be the ultimate comfort food

So what of 2013? Whilst I am definitely in no position to predict personal good fortunes, I can look at the food and drink and pass comment there. So here are a few thoughts to get the year going:

Mary's Fish Camp, NYC, Lobster Roll

Mary’s Fish Camp, NYC, Lobster Roll

1. Add lobster rolls to the snacking fashion. Personally this is not something I have particularly enjoyed, but it seems to be up there on the list of things hitting our menus very soon.

2. Asian sauces with extra heat. It seems all things Asian will continue to grow and as our palettes get used to the flavours, we can take on more and more heat, so Sriracha chilli sauce goes mainstream by coming to an M&S store near you.

3. All things fermented and pickled, as epitomised by Kimchee which will continue to take over the restaurant world this year. The whole balance of sweet, sour, salty, bitter is going to be more and more prevalent.

Yum Bun Pork Bun

Yum Bun Pork Bun

4. Chinese steamed buns. Momofuku has been making these from the start and this year Yum Bun have been up there in bringing their pillow of pork belly into the mainstream so I am sure it will appear on many more menus in 2013. If not, go to Yum Bun at Kings Cross as it really is a beautiful thing.

5. Foraging remains strong as we continue our love affair with all things Noma, and this will progress with regional food trails and more weird and wonderful green things making star appearances on our plates.

6. Savoury desserts: look out for more bacon inspired sweets, along with the fashion for savoury doughnuts which is spreading fast.

Fauchon eclairs

Fauchon eclairs

7. In contrast, sweeter than sweet desserts and pastries will continue to entice. Fauchon lead the way with their incredible array of wonderful eclairs and there is also a big fashion for marshmallow, brittles and nougat.

8. Don’t despair, because we are also getting cleverer at using nature’s finest. The healthier and more aware among us are using natural sweetness from fruits to inject fresh natural sugar into our food. There will also be more vege starters on menus and intensity of both taste and colour coming from home grown goodness.

9. In the same vein, we will see healthy foods play a big part as ever in our food as superfoods, wonderful oils, healthy grains and so on will continue to dominate our food choices, along with a big nod from our vegan friends who are bringing products like agave syrup into the mainstream.

bobs-bitters

10. Following on from gin we will get our alcohol hits with infusions. There are now a huge array of bitters on the market which are being put to good use by mixologists from far and wide. They will continue to evolve in our drinks and be accompanied with tonics, syrups and flavoured vinegars which will bring new excitement into our cocktails.

So cheers to you all. Happy new year and here’s to a wonderful indulgent food filled 2013.

Christmas is almost upon us and this weekend consumer are predicted by the BRC to break sales records with a £5billion spend as last minute shoppers go in search of price deals on their perfect gift.

All your shopping needs taken care of by the magical elfridge

All your shopping needs taken care of by the magical elfridge

My search of London didn’t really excite too much with predictable gifts for a food lover like me. I trawled the big department stores in the hope that places like Liberty, Fortnums and Harrods would inspire but to be honest none are a patch on Selfridges, who just got it right. It may have been the brigade of Elfridges, complete with Vivienne Westwood red ballgowns and roller skates, or perhaps the many one off concessions, or even the samplings and demos, but the overall experience is just top class.

popcorn

I managed to find my whole popcorn shopping here at a better price than I was looking at online. I went for the more traditional stove top version with funky containers and obviously lots of interesting corns. You could also add a jar of Joe and Seph’s if you wanted something ready made. As in the US, popcorn, waffles, DIY sets and all things with coffee or chocolate were featured in abundance.

Alcohol is also excelling itself with cocktails, one off unique blends, fantastic packaging and lots more to entice, but I am not a big drinker so I focused on the food this year.

Love brownies

For my gift buying, there were a few people that I would like to recommend. Firstly Love Brownies. The wonderful Chantal is from my home county of Yorkshire and bakes superb award winning brownies, but the real treat is the packaging which is clever, contemporary and colourful. Easy to order, simply delivered and great value, these are perfect for all occasions.

Lauden

The other Yorkshire company that has been a personal favourite of mine is Lauden Chocolates. This husband and wife team make incredible one off chocolates with real fruit centres and different chocolate coatings to match the filling. I am not one for fruit and chocolate but these really make you re-evaluate all that. And there is a fantastic salted caramel version just in case you want something else. Of course, there are the usual chocolate shops such as Paul Young and Marc de Marquette, but I like to support Lauden and again their product is superb and their packaging  clean and contemporary.

Other shops on my list which have continued to excite this year are The Sampler in Islington for wonderful wines, Ottolenghi if only for their clementine jam, La Fromagerie for great, if very pricey cheese, Sally Clarkes for general yumminess and of course my lovely friends at Melrose and Morgan. They just make the most wonderful things and a trip to either of their shops in Hampstead or Primrose Hill will inspire you to leave with huge armfuls of their home made treats, plus the best sausage roll around as a treat for you to indulge in … well, you have been schlepping around all day. This year, M&M’s stollen has been the surprise treat which has been added to their catalogue of wonderful things including their light, tasty Christmas pudding made with Clay Barn Orchard quinces and the best mince pies with crumbly buttery pastry and a juicy tasty filling. I don’t even like mince pies!

At this point, I do have to mention Anthropologie which is great for kitchen and gift inspiration. A friend of mine went there today having been all over trying to find something for her 21 year old daughter and was amazed and delighted. And for online inspiration, I like Not on the High Street. Once again, they have one-off gifts and great things to personalise. For something different and spot on with the whole Scandinavian trend, have a look at Daniel’s website: Bageriet. These treats are all home made and he is a superb baker. If you really want to push the boat out ask him about his gingerbread houses. I know they are not shown on the website, but take my word for it, they are amazing.

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Finally, for something a little different, the big fashion this year is to give an experience rather than a product. Book a course to learn how to make bread, or honey, or all things fishy, or even a full on butchery course. And if you want to send something out there, you could do worse than repeat my Rent a Cherry Tree gift (even if the weather ruined the crop this year) or adopt an olive tree for a year which promises quarterly deliveries of oil made from your very own olives. I used Nudo last year and their packaging seemed to impress my friend over in New Zealand.

So Merry Christmas one and all. Let me know if there was anything that you were particularly impressed with this year and have a wonderful celebration. Here’s to 2013.

What made me so interested in food and cooking?

Every time I ask a chef that question, they come up with the same answer as me and that is their Mum (or someone equally influential who they cooked with as a young child). For me, it was most definitely Mum and her wonderful dinner parties. I loved helping out just as soon as I was tall enough to peek over the kitchen counter and her creations didn’t disappoint. Think The Roux brothers and Robert Carrier combined with a dash of Fanny Craddock and The Galloping Gourmet. This was classic 70’s cooking.

Roux brothers

We were also lucky enough to be taken to great restaurants from an early age and encouraged to try all sorts of things which made me and my sister inquisitive and adventurous. I have such a strong memory of the restaurants we frequented in Spain where we went on holiday for many many years. Veal Cordon Bleu at Caesars, Spaghetti Carbonara at Don Leone (oh – and the chocolate cake), Gambas Pil Pil at El Molino and the Rum Bumble at Yellow Book. Of all the restaurants we tried, my favourite by far was Los Duendes in San Pedro. Now bear with me because it was a few years ago, but Los Duendes was so memorable that, even though they closed well over 30 years ago, I fondly cite their dishes as the best I have ever eaten. Langoustine Duendes was cooked whole in a copper pan at the table; hot Crepe Duendes were flambeed in a smaller copper pan also at the table and layered with ice cream that melted under the orangey, caramel sauce; and the White Lady was a simple classic with thick hot chocolate sauce poured over pure white ice cream from a long handled copper sauce pot that looked more like something from a chemistry lesson than a restaurant. I still love copper pans to this day.

euphemia-haye-longboat-keyFast forward to today and I am glad to say I am escaping the crazy cold weather at home to visit my parents in Sarasota, Florida. Not only is it lovely to be on the beach at this time of year, but I am also able to visit some of their favourite places out here. First is the infamous Euphemia Haye. This restaurant is an institution and delivers wonderful food each and every time with pretty much the same menu I remember from my first visit here some twenty odd years ago. Somehow, the food is never tired, just perfectly cooked and tasty. The two stand out dishes for me are, believe it or not, the Caesar Salad and the Brussel Sprouts!

The best Caesar Salad ever

The best Caesar Salad ever

The Caesar Salad is quite simply the best I have ever eaten. It is blessed with lashings of garlic (some may say too much), a fresh clean tasty dressing made in front of you, chunks of romaine lettuce and crispy croutons. Each mouthful taken with the chilled fork is heaven.

Euphemia Haye

As for Brussel Sprouts, this dish would persuade even the most cynical to partake in this lovely vegetable and given the time of year, I will share with you the secret from the mouth of the chef. Firstly, you should know they are soft on the inside with caramelised crispy bits on the outside, tasting nutty and delicious. So how do they do it? Well, I am told the sprouts are firstly pan fried in olive oil with a touch of garlic and then finished off in the oven until soft. Try it this Christmas – you will not be disappointed.

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