Archives for category: Restaurants

This week I have been pondering the latest fashion in restaurant offers to help shape a project that I am working on.

The whole seasonal, local sourcing remains front of mind for most food innovation and is still cited by many as the trend but the truth is that it should now simply be a way of life for anyone worth their weight in the food world.

The Meatball Shop, NYC

Most menus now read like an essay with locally sourced precursors added to each & every item listed and I find myself slightly bored by it all. I tend to be drawn to restaurants that specialise in a unique cuisine or one key dish I like such as roast chicken or meatballs rather than the more generic menus simply because I can’t get excited by these any more….and I can’t guarantee a good meal.

So where does local, seasonal go from here?

I think the next iteration of that fashion is regionality. Not just regional ingredients but regional recipes made with seasonal, local, regional ingredients. I think at times of hardship, when we are watching the pennies, and feeling a little bit sorry for ourselves, we want comforting food. This inevitably harks back to our upbringing and local homely dishes that our mothers, or grandmothers made.

Heston’s Meat Fruit

The best example of a restaurant harking back to recipes of old is Dinner. You can always depend on Heston Blumenthal to be at the forefront, but what is so reassuring is that he thinks that it is indeed these recipes that are the ones to take us into the future. You only have to see the almost iconic status that his Meat Fruit recipe has achieved to think there must be something in all of this.

I was specifically looking at the North East region for my latest project and it is interesting that the more isolated parts of the British Isles are those that have the really big signature recipes. Cornish Pasties….Lancashire hotpot….Yorkshire pudding….they all have a history in their roots and a place in our hearts.

Inevitably it is the baking elements that are the most embedded in our psyche and I guess that is because of the romantic notion of Mum baking at home and the sensory memory that evokes. It’s why I am not surprised at the success of the Great British Bake Off and all those classic dishes they make. In the North East they have the stottie and that will definitely be featuring in my new project.

This week I also went to the Real Bread Festival at the Southbank. Those Real Food people have extended the now permanent Real Food Market under the Royal Festival Hall awnings to include other specialist markets on the calendar including bread, chocolate, tea & coffee and cheese & wine. Sadly there wasn’t the range of bread specialists that I was expecting, rather a tiny handful of passionate bakers selling their wares. It all felt a little sad and left me wondering how these people really make a living.

So let’s resurrect the Mrs Beeton in us and go back to those home baking recipes that conjure up memories of old. Instead of croissants and brownies, how about scones and eccles cakes? The cupcake is evolving into the fairy cake for some bakers so there must be hope for us all.

I think I am going to have to bite the bullet and get a Twitter account.

One of my current work projects involves a big rebrand and as a result we are considering the role of social media and how we need to use it to best promote the company. Sir Martin Sorrell recently said “Twitter is a PR medium, not an advertising medium” which got me thinking about the role it will play for us and also in the future. I think the lovely Mr. Sorrell may need to rethink his view over time.

Kellogs pop up Tweet Shop

This week saw the last few days of the Kellogs pop up Tweet Shop in Soho which is a real first and one that will have us all re-evaluating the role of Twitter in our social media campaigns. Promoting the new Special K cracker crisps, consumers were encouraged to tweet from a choice of three statements or make up one of their own and in exchange, they receive a box of their chosen flavour. Tweets are the new currency. This is a really clever move taking the power of social media and combining it with the ever growing strength of word of mouth.

In this age of Twitter, word of mouth (read tweet) is increasingly important. In fact, it has been said that 92% of consumers trust recommendations from people they know and that translates to up to 50% conversion.

It is the insight into the industry that I know will suck me in as soon as I have an account. I was looking up Tom Sellers to keep an eye on his latest venture and suddenly you get a glimpse at his choice of restaurants, suppliers, friends and food connections: Tom Kerridge, Nate Green, Adam Byatt, James Knappett and of course Chef Keller. The legend that is Thomas Keller has 202,151 followers. This compares to Gordon Ramsay who has 1,034,062 which only goes to show the power of TV. But both genius Thomas and dear old Gordon pale to insignificance compared to the media savvy, personable and very popular Jamie Oliver who wins hands down with 2,587,156 followers. Unbelievable.

For the food industry, the Twitter route has facilitated the growth of markets and pop up concepts, not to mention bums on seats with last minute availability making some of the best spots open to all. You only have to look at the entrepreneurs doing a great job in the industry to see how it is done. Pitt Cue Co continue to impress in this field, but others are equally strong: Mr. Jones tells me that The Ribman is doing a great job and so undoubtedly we will be eating ribs very soon. And if that’s anything to go by, then ribs will be closely followed by burgers, mussels, yum buns, doughnuts and lots more. Mr. J. is also talking about all the food markets, day and night, that we need to frequent and I am, as always a willing compatriot for that.

What is fascinating is how many people are following these guys and just how many tweets they clock up. The most committed is The Ribman who has clocked up over 25,000 tweets. He may have an unhealthy love of West Ham and a controversial taste in T-shirts but he also has a personality and a conversation that others want to hear. We follow the person as much as the food.

So, Mr. Sorrell. You may be the most powerful man in advertising, but maybe the power of Twitter will win out. Is this still only PR or do you as a leader in the advertising world need to think again?

Nick Jones is a clever man and someone who has his finger on the zeitgeist pulse.

He is one of those entrepreneurs that you cite when the debate about education comes up having left school at 17 with poor academic qualifications and an unsupported issue with dyslexia. He moved from school into the catering world simply because he had a love of food…and the rest, as they say, is history.

Babington House

Private Members Club Soho House was closely followed by Babington, a country house hotel and suddenly Mr Jones was on the radar. At the time, indulging in weekends away at a boutique hotel was simply a concept in the lovely Nick’s mind and yet some 14 years later it is positively mainstream. He developed an old country house with contemporary fixtures, flat screen TV’s and cosy dressing gowns in every room plus a lovely restaurant  and spa on site. So the Cowshed brand was born.

Now the Soho House Group has an international repertoire of houses, hotels, restaurants, cinemas, magazines, drinks and so much more. But what I find most interesting is how every time there is a new project it is on the money in terms of trend.

Pizza the Mozza way

The latest developments to hit the mark are the Pizza East restaurants. Created in the Tea Building, Shoreditch, they are wonderful spaces that took a pizza recipe from the iconic Pizzeria Mozza in LA and signature meatballs from The Meatball Shop in NYC putting the two together into a trendy setting with wood fired ovens, great ingredient sourcing, uber trendy staff with thick rimmed glasses and there you are….a recipe for success.

I have been going to Pizza East, Shoreditch for some time now, combining it with the lesser known rooftop garden at the Boundary hotel in the Summer and more recently going to Boxpark. When they opened their second site in Notting Hill it was wonderful to see how they had developed the concept from a huge open warehouse space into a local neighbourhood eaterie with a clever use of colour to differentiate the two.

So when Pizza East Kentish Town opened round the corner from me, I was fascinated to see how it would be further developed. What was clever about this iteration was the use of the site itself, which combines three concepts onto one site keeping rents down and footfall up…genius. First there is Pizza East taking centre stage, but below that is The Chicken Shop: a below stairs simple roast chicken restaurant and at the back, in a glorified car park shed lies the last piece of this jigsaw: Dirty Burger. Each place has a look, feel and venue that matches its identity perfectly. And each specialises in doing one thing well whether it is a burger, simple roast chicken or great pizza.

It strikes me that Mr. Jones has finally figured out how we as Brits embrace the whole street food culture. There has been much debate over the years how this can be done as the US led the way in clever mobile units of scrummy food but it never really kicked off here. More recently, and with the launch of British Street Food Awards, there has been some growth in that whole style of eating. This year, winners come from even further afield and underpin the quality and diversity of food that can come from passionate people who really do want to bring something unique to the market. But what happens then? How do you make a living selling one thing out of a mobile, however well you make it?

The options vary. In London, the Eat Street team do a great job of pulling together talented cooks and their street food. They have a consistent and prominent site in Kings Cross and together have more power to market themselves for events, catering and much more. Also going from strength to strength are the Pitt Cue guys who have become pin ups for the evolution of street food with their central London restaurant going from strength to strength. They are now breeding their own Middlewhite and Mangalitza pigs in Hampshire…who have their own twitter feed, should you be interested! So street food chef becomes restaurateur and evolves into food producer.

With his three concept site, Mr. Jones has found a way of offering customer choice without incurring crazy infrastructure costs. Mobile units are replaced with permanent sites but each one shares a third of the risk. The only challenge for me is the product itself. Whilst it came highly recommended, I found the chicken lacklustre. Maybe it was the early time we arrived (in an attempt to miss the queue) but our 6.30 meal was lukewarm, soggy skinned and a little bit dry. Even the sauces, which will surely become a foray into retail, were watery and lacking depth. Still, this didn’t seem to stop people coming and I found it particularly endearing to see so many male friends sharing a plate of chicken with simple sides. Me and my very own Mr. Jones found some comfort in the apple pie served directly to our plates from one enamelware pie dish but sadly it was not enough to compensate for the disappointing chicken.

It’s been a busy couple of weeks for me which is why this post is well overdue. This time last week I was climbing a mountain! … literally. But enough of me as there has been loads going on in the food world too and with so much to report, I am inundated with topics to cover.

A perfect pasta bowl from the lovely Il Leone Mastrantonio, Cape Town

I was catching up on the results of the latest Zagat London Restaurant Survey earlier on this week as voted by the public. Interestingly, Italian maintains its position as the most popular cuisine, driven by the fact that people choose to eat it more frequently than French which is the second spot even though their restaurants rate higher individually. Japanese food came third. Despite the big fashion for British food, only one in ten people voted it their favourite style of food to eat so it was way down the list.

Chef Patron Daniel Toledo of Il Leone with my friend’s wonderful daughter

What is it about Italian that rings true with us all? Maybe it’s the chefs themselves. Personally, I was hooked the moment I met Daniel Toledo at his restaurant Il Leone in Cape Town. And his food was equally beautiful.

Seriously though, I think there are some clear reasons why we all relate to this type of food. Firstly it is the simplicity. Most dishes take a few authentic ingredients which are simply prepared and cooked with all the flavour coming from the base product itself. This simple way of eating has also scored well with the Zagat guide who have concluded that we are all moving away from formal dining experiences towards something more casual which offers value for money.

The second reason we all relate to Italian is that it is quick to cook so we can all have a go at home without a great investment in time or energy. There are some basic tips that are passed down from Nonna that really do transform recipes and these are worth getting under your belt. I learnt a few tips of my own from Mamma Agata when I did her cookery course in Ravello on the Amalfi coast a few years ago now.

Mamma Agata in her kitchen

Mamma and I went to the market every day to pick our ingredients depending on what was fresh that day. But what I loved even more than that was the fact that she topped those up with items from her garden. She simply shouted out of the window and minutes later her husband would come in armed with stunning stuff plucked fresh from their garden which overlooked the beautiful Amalfi coastline. Lemons, tomatoes, eggs, aubergine, their own olive oil…it was endless. Once the food was ready, we sat outside taking it all in and enjoying the fruits of our labour.

Dinner with Mamma

Clearly the third element to make up the art of Italian cookery comes with the ingredients themselves. We all know that authentic San Marzano tomatoes transform a dish and thick skinned juicy Sicilian lemons have a following of their own. As for burrata….what can I say? Creamy cheesey heaven. So, it was fascinating to see an Irish company win the Supreme Champion of the Great Taste Awards last week with their unique Italian Guanciale.

Hannan Meats of County Antrim are experts in gourmet meats supplying top restaurants and hotels in both Northern Ireland and the UK. They were approached by Italian chefs and restaurants to develop Guanciale which is a traditional ingredient in many pasta dishes. This product is rare in Italy so the fact that a Northern Irish company is making it at all is very impressive. This is a dry-cured bacon made from pigs jowl with a mixture of herbs and spices, garlic and red wine and is used as an alternative to pancetta in many central Italian recipes. The judges at Great Taste were unanimous in making Hannan’s Guanciale the overall winner having judged over 8800 products in the past few months. So Italy wins again.

All this talk of Italian food is making me hungry. I think I will go back to Il Leone’s prawn pasta myself tonight for dinner. It is a tried and tested favourite of my own.

Mamma’s Amalfi lemons

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