Archives for category: Restaurants

What made me so interested in food and cooking?

Every time I ask a chef that question, they come up with the same answer as me and that is their Mum (or someone equally influential who they cooked with as a young child). For me, it was most definitely Mum and her wonderful dinner parties. I loved helping out just as soon as I was tall enough to peek over the kitchen counter and her creations didn’t disappoint. Think The Roux brothers and Robert Carrier combined with a dash of Fanny Craddock and The Galloping Gourmet. This was classic 70’s cooking.

Roux brothers

We were also lucky enough to be taken to great restaurants from an early age and encouraged to try all sorts of things which made me and my sister inquisitive and adventurous. I have such a strong memory of the restaurants we frequented in Spain where we went on holiday for many many years. Veal Cordon Bleu at Caesars, Spaghetti Carbonara at Don Leone (oh – and the chocolate cake), Gambas Pil Pil at El Molino and the Rum Bumble at Yellow Book. Of all the restaurants we tried, my favourite by far was Los Duendes in San Pedro. Now bear with me because it was a few years ago, but Los Duendes was so memorable that, even though they closed well over 30 years ago, I fondly cite their dishes as the best I have ever eaten. Langoustine Duendes was cooked whole in a copper pan at the table; hot Crepe Duendes were flambeed in a smaller copper pan also at the table and layered with ice cream that melted under the orangey, caramel sauce; and the White Lady was a simple classic with thick hot chocolate sauce poured over pure white ice cream from a long handled copper sauce pot that looked more like something from a chemistry lesson than a restaurant. I still love copper pans to this day.

euphemia-haye-longboat-keyFast forward to today and I am glad to say I am escaping the crazy cold weather at home to visit my parents in Sarasota, Florida. Not only is it lovely to be on the beach at this time of year, but I am also able to visit some of their favourite places out here. First is the infamous Euphemia Haye. This restaurant is an institution and delivers wonderful food each and every time with pretty much the same menu I remember from my first visit here some twenty odd years ago. Somehow, the food is never tired, just perfectly cooked and tasty. The two stand out dishes for me are, believe it or not, the Caesar Salad and the Brussel Sprouts!

The best Caesar Salad ever

The best Caesar Salad ever

The Caesar Salad is quite simply the best I have ever eaten. It is blessed with lashings of garlic (some may say too much), a fresh clean tasty dressing made in front of you, chunks of romaine lettuce and crispy croutons. Each mouthful taken with the chilled fork is heaven.

Euphemia Haye

As for Brussel Sprouts, this dish would persuade even the most cynical to partake in this lovely vegetable and given the time of year, I will share with you the secret from the mouth of the chef. Firstly, you should know they are soft on the inside with caramelised crispy bits on the outside, tasting nutty and delicious. So how do they do it? Well, I am told the sprouts are firstly pan fried in olive oil with a touch of garlic and then finished off in the oven until soft. Try it this Christmas – you will not be disappointed.

PIGS

Pigs are very intelligent, clean, social animals with a wonderful sense of smell, which is why they are great truffle hunters. So we should love them for that reason alone. Oh, and they also taste great!

As a nice Jewish girl, I am not sure it is legal to have such a penchant for pig, but what can a girl do? It is definitely the meat of the moment having showcased its best sides through Jamie’s shoulder of pork recipe, the trend a few years ago for pork belly, the whole scratchings fashion and latterly, barbecued ribs a la Pitt Cue co.

Tea towels from Ham

Tea towels from Ham

This Christmas, my presents and cards will also have a piggy feel thanks to the wonderful Jo at Ham who is manufacturing beautiful piggy based things for the kitchen here in Britain.

The Pig Sign

This week, I finally managed to get down to the New Forest to have lunch at The Pig hotel, which has been on my list for some time now. Created by successful hotelier Robin Hutson, this reasonably priced, 26 room hotel is the latest incarnation from the Lime Wood Group. Mr Hutson is a bit of an inspiration in the hotel world. He created the Hotel du Vin chain which reinvented the town hotel and now he has applied his immense talent to the country hotel. The beauty of The Pig is the walled garden, which is central to the concept and really does define the identity of the place. By bringing the food into the heart of the hotel, The Pig has partnered two key elements required to satisfy even the most discerning lodger.

The walled garden treats

The walled garden treats

Cavolo Nero is such a wonderful veg

Cavolo Nero is such a wonderful veg

The Pig menu is created from within a 25 mile radius with chef, forager and gardener working well together to create wonderful British garden food. Everything was presented with a nod to garden, from the first seating in the Victorian conservatory to the presentation of the menu and table complete with herb pots. But the most exciting part was the menu itself. It was creative and interesting and the food generally delivered in the same vein. This wasn’t exciting cutting edge food and some of the flavour was not as intense as I would have expected, but we had a great time and a thoroughly enjoyable, good value meal.

The Victorian conservatory houses the restaurant

The Victorian conservatory houses the restaurant

The Pig hotelThe whole experience reminded me of two other places I have written about before in Top of the World and The Promised Land.

The Stone Barn that houses Blue Hill

The Stone Barn that houses Blue Hill

The first is Blue Hill at Stone Barns, home of the brilliant chef, Dan Barber in New York. This is the best overall meal experience I have ever had. It began with a tour of the farm and ended with a 28 course meal that blew my mind. The first 10 course were vegetarian and the first 12 course were eaten without cutlery!

What the team at Blue Hill don’t know about veggies is not worth knowing. It was the Driven by Flavour podcast that first introduced me to chef Barber, changing my whole outlook on vegetables, and was the only reason I went to Blue Hill in the first place. If you ever get the chance, go there, take the farm tour, see what it is these guys do with every single element of meat and veg and just bathe in the glory of these ultra talented passionate people. Ask about the charcoal, go and see the pigs and make the most of the incredible knowledgable passionate staff who will tell you everything you need to know about the meal. Each table gets something slightly different as the chef creates dishes from what is available so go for it…we did! The Blue Hill clan are genuinely changing the world with their revelations and delivering incredible food at the same time. This is the premier league of garden centric restaurants and it doesn’t get much better than this.

One little part of the garden at Babylonstoren

One little part of the garden at Babylonstoren

The other place that puts a garden at the heart of its hotel and restaurant is Babylonstoren in the Winelands, near Cape Town. The menu and cooking here was not as exciting as Blue Hill, but in terms of design and gardens, this wins hands down. My ‘room’ was actually a cottage which I could quite happily have lived in forever and every single part of the hotel embraced the surrounding grounds. Room service had touches of herbs, you were positively encouraged to go pick your own and cook in your room and the staff even let me go cook the morning breads for breakfast. This is a piece of heaven and a must if you are in the area.

My herby fruity breakfast bread baked alongside the Babylonstoren chef who cooks for Babel restaurant

My herby fruity breakfast bread baked alongside the Babylonstoren chef who cooks for Babel restaurant

Garden centric restaurants and hotels rule and I hope that The Pig is one of many that follow in this country.

Duck Egg Tart with red wine sauce, turnip puree, lardons and sauteed duck heart

Last week, I had one of the best meals I have eaten in London for a long long time. I took my friend JR to a place called Medlar, and it got me thinking about what constitutes a great restaurant and why more places don’t tick that box for me.

I often experience much ridicule from my friends for my ever growing list of places I read or hear about that I want to try. And try I do…but mostly only to be disappointed. I am not sure whether my definition of a great restaurant differs to the critics or maybe the hype is more marketing speak than reality, but there are genuinely only a handful of places in London that do it for me.

I do recognise that over the years, my definition of ‘great’ has changed. I used to think that the traditional Michelin Star places were the ones to indulge in and there is no doubt that there is some superlative cooking going on in those kitchens. But the whole formality doesn’t make for a fun evening, and pomp turns into pompous far too easily.

It was a revelation for me to experience the new world of one Michelin star gastropubs, which were a significant addition to the Michelin process. These places tick many of my boxes, especially in the food stakes. The Harewood Arms in Fulham and The Royal Oak, Paley Street are two that spring to mind. Both showcase food from really talented chefs who are creative and fanatical about their dishes even though the end plate is something simple.

That’s what the chef at Medlar does so well too. It says on their website:

“At Medlar we aim to cook seasonal ingredients from the British Isles and Europe accurately and simply. The style is French based but takes inspiration from all over. A love of food drives Joe to the kitchen, and he strives to cook food that is first and foremost satisfying to eat, without over-elaboration or pretension.”

Well, let me tell you that he certainly does that. In fact, it is quite a puzzle how he does this and still delivers such amazing value, especially for lunch. £26 for a three course meal of this calibre is quite remarkable.

The wine list was equally skilled. I am not a big drinker but do appreciate a nice glass of wine with my meal and the wines by the glass (and carafe) were just wonderful. In fact, the whole wine list was to my rather uneducated eye very well formulated covering all regions and countries as well as prices with good style and taste.

JR’s crab ravioli starter with samphire, brown shrimps, fondue of leeks and bisque sauce

However good the food & wine, an overall restaurant experience needs much more. There is, of course, the environment itself. Clearly this should reflect the essence of the place you are aiming for and so this can vary. In older age (and yes, I realise how this is going to sound!) I find that I want less music and noise, and more of an elegant atmosphere. When I say elegant, I don’t mean stuffy. My Dad and I always talk about white tablecloths as this seems to ensure a more refined experience, but once again there is a fine line between refinement and stuffiness. Medlar is more on the formal side, but we still ate lunch in jeans and didn’t feel too embarrassed by our crumbs and dribbles on the white tablecloth.

What really defined this great experience for me were the people who ran the place. Our waitress was wonderful. She had absolutely the right balance of chatty camaraderie and respect for us as diners. There was something about the fact that she wasn’t in uniform that kept things casual. I also had great admiration for her skills in dealing with the misogynistic, drunk table of businessmen who were behaving quite inappropriately after their fourth bottle. JR and I marvelled at the fact this still goes on in this modern world of ours, but I can assure it did that day.

Food/wine + value for money + environment + service is the formula for this conundrum and the balance of these four elements is the key to a wonderful experience….plus the people you share your meal with, of course.

Try Dragon’s Breath Popcorn and you too will do this….

I was first introduced to the food of Jose Andres in LA by my wonderful friend Bonnie, whose “Bonnie Tour” of her beautiful city is one to recommend. My Capetonian friend Mark partook of the tour a few weeks ago and I believe it was as fun packed and exciting as ever. I was positively jealous of all they explored and have made a note to update myself as soon as I can.

The modern side of The Bazaar

The Bazaar dessert bar

Meanwhile, Senor Andres continues to excite at The Bazaar in the SLS hotel in LA serving up modern and traditional Spanish cuisine as well as fabby cocktails. Jose is a friend and student of Ferran Adria and you can certainly see the influence when you try his food. But this is not El Bulli reincarnated, rather Jose taking the food of his childhood and creating some clever and stunning twists on classic combinations that really do make you smile. Last year he was named outstanding chef of the year by the James Beard Foundation and his workload and output are a testament to not only his drive but also his passion for the culinary world.

The reason I was reminded of my wonderful meal at The Bazaar was this video of Jose once again talking at Harvard for their Science and Cooking lecture series. I know it’s long, so dip in and out if you want, but personally I would rather watch this than a whole load of stuff that is on TV at the mo. There are loads of clips revealing the secrets behind his dishes.

I hope you enjoy it and Jose as much as I do.

 

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