Archives for category: Retail

I am trying to run down my store cupboard in anticipation of moving to a new house. I have no doubt that I will find some weird and wonderful things lurking at the back from the 1980’s but the truth is that my store cupboard really is the source of some wonderful meals and I like having a repertoire of things to draw on.

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Pulses seem to be a staple in all sorts of forms. At the moment I am looking at bags of beans, bulgar wheat, pearl barley, lentils, different rices and just this week a new investment in Freekeh. This grain was first brought to my attention by team Ottolenghi. He describes the history of this green wheat here on his website and is of course one of the few people selling it at his online store. It was the smokiness that interested me, so tonight I am cooking with it for the first time.

caffe sant eustachio cup

I actually bought my box at Marks and Spencer. Having worked there for almost 20 years, I still have an affection for the food and always have a nose around their International brands. This is a discreet section towards the back but full of many interesting discoveries. It is under the management of the lovely Mr Seaby who is responsible for cherry picking the best ambient products from around the world to add interest into the grocery range and over recent years he has done a grand job. Food icons in the range include Kewpie mayonnaise, Alan Milliat nectars, Sant’Eustachio wood roasted coffee (arguably the best in the world!), El Navaricco pulses from Spain, pimenton (of course) and fabulous Swedish rye crackers (knackebrod) which remind me of my trip to the beautiful Stockholm.

Moon Valley up close

Recently I spotted this range from Moon Valley who are a social enterprise established in 2009, primarily working with Palestinian farmers in the West Bank and the surrounding countries, doing some great stuff with local people and for the local economy. The company was founded by Toby Coppel (ex Chief Strategy Officer, Yahoo) and a man who used to walk me round the fashion floor of M&S Bromley store when I was a mere Assistant Manager and he was the Director of Womenswear, Andrew Stone, now Lord Stone of Blackheath. This man was most definitely a genius, sharing a million and one ideas with me every week and praying that I had the sense to pick one or two that would really impact on sales. The one that sticks in my memory was an idea to display sale merchandise on roller racks in size order, which is common practice now, but was certainly revolutionary then. These two have on board as their CEO another colleague from M&S, David Job, who was a highly respected Senior Food Buyer when I worked in the food group, and is now managing this fabulous business.

freekeh pilaf

In order to do justice to my first time freekeh I went with Ottolenghi, who has a feast of wonderful recipes online. He is a dab hand at this type of cooking. This pilaf is right up my street, ensuring I have leftovers to feed me during the week and making sure to add flavour not only with plenty of herbs, but also the yogurt dressing, which I later transformed into tzatziki.

So what of the freekeh? Well, it was fab. I have always preferred bulgar wheat to couscous and now I think freekeh tops the bill.

It’s taken me the best part of this week to recover from our intense NYC tour and also to wade through all the photos we took.

There is no doubt that many UK cities, and in particular London, offer great inspiration but since we found ourselves in New York it seemed churlish not to make the most of it. So after the usual suspects and Brooklyn, we set off to mop up the remaining places. This city delivers people doing one thing well, whether it’s coffee, ice lollies, meatballs, dougnuts…..you name it they do it. As ever, my friends from Echochamber and also the lovely Lauren & Ben gave me the best tips making it easier to cherry pick the places to catch up on.

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Lauren & Ben epitomise the passionate New Yorker. They seem to be friends and connected with so many of the new food & drink people and know so much about where to go and what to consume. Every recommendation is spot on. They told me about Daniel Delaney last time and we popped into Briskettown when we were in Brooklyn.

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This time they told us about Mighty Quinn’s BBQ, which is similar to Pitt Cue Co. but keeps it more open with the kitchen butchery on show and stacks of wood to fuel the fire and produce great dishes such as the spare ribs and especially burnt ends. Signature bottled BBQ sauce is a must these days along with the t-shirt and baseball cap. Also essential is smoking the meat and slow cooking those delicious hard working cuts that are just the best when cooked like this.

Butchery at Mighty Quinn's

Butchery at Mighty Quinn’s

The obligatory signature sauce

The obligatory signature sauce

We also discovered Chobani which has become a bit of a phenomenon in the USA. This company was started by a Turkish immigrant, Hamdi Ulukaya, in 2005 and in the past 7 years has grown into a $1billion business. He keeps it simple, making authentic, natural strained or ‘greek’ yogurt with real fruit flavours and this formula has made it into the most popular yogurt brand in the US. It is coming over to the UK with some Tesco and Morrisons stores now stocking it.

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Frankly it is not the pot of yogurt that impressed me – rather their Soho shop. Set on the corner of Prince and W Broadway, this yogurt bar is so well done with a clever service counter, lovely finish to the outside and most especially a wonderful way of serving take away yogurt with glass dishes and a simple muslin lid held on with a red elastic band. Oh – and the yogurt wasn’t bad either!

inside Chobani

inside Chobani

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The other place that is less well known but continues to deliver is Sullivan Street Bakery in deepest darkest Hells Kitchen, making wonderful authentic Italian bread and pizza bianca.

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Founder/owner Jim Lahey keeps it real with an open kitchen, simple decor and edited range of breads that showcase his now well known techniques. I particularly liked these wooden ladders for the pizza which clearly allow the base to breathe and remain crisp crisp crisp.

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Finally, no trip to New York would be complete without a connection with the Cronut. I say a connection because it is still almost impossible to get one, but nevertheless, I whizzed off to Dominique Ansel’s Soho patisserie on Sunday morning to witness the craze. True to form, the Cronut queue is still going strong with a security guard manning the entrance and the order. When someone asked him why people were queueing for a pastry he simply said ….they need to get a life! Well, life or not, we went in to witness the process and actually had a really lovely not-cronut pastry, the DKA. It may not have made the media hype but we loved it and judging by the people around us who had managed to bag a cronut, it was markedly more manageable than the slightly sweet sticky signature. In fact, one couple sitting next to us said it wasn’t as good as the copy they had eaten the previous week!

The cronut factory continues with avengeance at the back of the bakery

The cronut factory continues with avengeance at the back of the bakery

Over the Brooklyn Bridge

Over the Brooklyn Bridge

I am in New York this week taking the Laverstoke project team around on a research trip.

It’s been a couple of years since my last trip and it is interesting to see that many good places have stood the test of time: Eataly, Chelsea Market, Dean & Deluca, Crate & Barrel, Williams Sonoma….all classic favourites of mine continuing to inspire in some way or other.

But the real change is the development of Brooklyn which was getting there last time I was here but is now the must go destination for anyone with an interest in food. It is here that all the exciting concepts are doing their thing and it is here that you connect with passionate people who want to tell you all about it. Some would say that Americans are annoying with their ‘have a nice day’ approach but for me, I find the enthusiasm infectious especially in Brooklyn where it is genuinely placed and much more informed, as well as infectious, than in many UK destinations.

As ever in NYC, the concepts are focused on doing one thing well and we embraced each one with gusto: coffee, ice cream, bakery, beer, pickles, doughnuts, meat, chocolate….plus lots more. I think it is the fact that these guys get the fundamentals that drive good retail: a focused concept, great product, simple relevant branding and cool young things delivering the service offer to underpin it all.

Lovely packaging at Blue Bottle coffee

Lovely packaging at Blue Bottle coffee

Tiered taps reflecting the ale strengths at Torst

Tiered taps reflecting the ale strengths at Torst

Williamsburg is the first stop particularly along Berry street and if you are lucky a weekend chance to eat your way through Smorgasburg market. Particular favourites were Mast Brothers chocolate, Toby’s Estate and Blue Bottle coffee, Torst, OddFellows ice cream and Briskettown. Interestingly two of these concepts (plus the rather lovely pizza place Paulie Gee’s) were designed by hOmE who are obviously a clever bunch. There is an honesty and simplicity that showcases the product to its best potential. At Torst it is the wooden beer taps and glasses that say all that is needed to be said about their range and credibility. At Mast, the open production and piles of cocoa bean sacks give credibility to the product and the central table of beautifully packaged chocolate bars let’s the product do the talking not only in their display but also in their samples.

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Further south going towards Pacific Heights a special mention should go to Brooklyn Brine and in particular Jenny who had us with her passion for pickles. This lovely lady is everything you could dream of having as a member of staff and she was incredibly generous not only in her time showing us around the rear factory and talking us through all they have achieved but also in her insistence that we all took a free jar away with us. Who knew there could be so much joy to be found in a pickle?

Back in Manhattan we pooled our pics and pondered the industrial designs, the clever touches and the beautiful pieces of reclaimed kit that were so achingly trendy but also so raw against these fabulous shiny new brands. We have taken much from our last couple of days and still have so much more to discover so watch this space.

Good old New York…it never disappoints.

 

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I was reading Olive magazine this weekend as I do every month. Somehow, the magazine goes through phases of having lots of interesting snippets and then being very dull. At the moment it is pretty dull, even though this issue was celebrating its 10th year anniversary. There were lots of top tens: recipes, restaurants, places to visit, chef’s hairstyles! (apparently Jean Christophe Novelli tops this list), chefs we would like to have dinner with, food scares, ingredients and finally pieces of kitchen kit we can’t live without.

Now I don’t mean to sound as arrogant as I know this will, but I can honestly say that I didn’t agree with any of these lists and found most of them pretty outdated in parts. Take the kitchen kit, for example. Their list was:

– a brightly coloured stand mixer

– a santoku knife

– colour coded boards for food prep

– a mandolin

– silicone bakeware

– a bundt tin

– microplane grater

– muffin tins

– icing bags and nozzles

– plastic squeezy bottles

Copper kenwood

Now believe me, I get the Kenwood Mixer. Of course I do. I wrote about the copper version some time ago and still dream about that centre stage to any kitchen I create.

copper-cookware

But the first essentials of any kitchen are in my opinion a great set of pans and a really good knife which is suited to your own personal hand and style. At the moment, I am coveting copper pans, preferably of the Mauviel variety, not only for their stunning looks but also for their ability to conduct heat so evenly. As for knives, I agree with the Japanese sourcing. Mine is of medium size and weight, bought at a food fair and kept in its sheath to protect the blade. I take it wherever I am going to cook as it really is the making of great cooking. ..and very easy to sharpen on a soft block.

As for the Olive list, I was mostly surprised by the squeezy bottles and bundt tin. I can honestly say I would be very happy to live a long time without either of these and squeezy bottle lines of varying sauces seems so passe.

Alongside my knife and pans, I would add the following for my must have kitchen list:

– good toaster to take full size poilane bread slices for the perfect meal any time, simply toasted and topped with most yummy things

– microplane grater ideal for perfect zesting along with everything else it grates

– potato ricer: an essential for perfect mashed potato, and every kitchen needs to be producing lump free mashed potato

– really good blender to make silky smooth soups, amongst other things, along with a small pot attachment to blend sauces such as pesto or fresh mayo

falcon-enamelware

– enamelware tins because they look great, bake great and wash up great too

– mandolin only because it is ideal for pommes boulangeres and all those dishes that benefit from consistent and thin slices of fruit or veg

– sturdy wooden chopping board. I know this is controversial as wood is difficult to clean, but I really hate the noise and feel from any other board. Wood is the best for me.

– reusable baking parchment, or magic non-stick liner, as it is called on Lakeland. Not only is Lakeland a dream place for anyone interested in kitchen paraphernalia but it is also great value. The Lakeland range should really be on the list in its entirety but that can’t really count as a kitchen kit. It is simply a kitchen lovers destination and certainly something we can’t live without.

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