Amazing silhouette of man jumping at sunset toward 2014

January is here and as usual we are all starting the new year by watching what we eat and trying to mend our wicked Christmas ways. There is no doubt that the food focus for this month is on healthier eating … whatever that may mean.

It seems you can’t pick up a paper or watch a TV show without someone telling you something contradictory about what we should or shouldn’t be eating. Coffee – good or bad? Fat – good or bad? Organic – should we or shouldn’t we? Cheap meat, juices, red wine, fruit….it goes on and on. How we are supposed to figure it all out with all this misinformation?

Having spent last year working on an organic farm with a boss who had very strong views about food, I have to say that my understanding and opinion has developed once more. It can all be made quite simple. Eat like our grandparents ate and those before them. So keep it to pure foods, cooked fresh. No ready meals, nothing with additives, nothing that is not nurtured in an ethical way from our surroundings. Eat meat that comes from well treated animals and veg that is not sprayed with chemicals. Fat is good, most especially fat generated from grass fed animals. Our bodies need it. In addition, drink water and have enough sleep. Simple eh?

Stevia leaf

The big killer that is coming down the track and which has been having a lot of publicity lately is sugar. My first week on the above mentioned farm, my boss sent me this video (Sugar – The Bitter Truth). It is very clear from this and all that has followed that sugar (not fat) is the real threat to our diet. Even previously well regarded substitutes like agave syrup have been exposed as bad now. So what can you do? Well, clearly avoiding sugar rich drinks and foods is a must, but you can’t deny a girl with a sweet tooth everything, so what are the options? Well, it comes in the form of a rather innocent looking leaf – the stevia leaf.

This plant from South America has been used for thousands of years in that continent. It is a natural sweetener that is 300 times sweeter than traditional beet or cane sugar and yet it is natural and without calories. Because it is so sweet, some manufacturers are combining it with cheap bulking agents which don’t always complement the values so beware which version you buy, but one that is getting good press is natvia. It is taking Australia by storm and those guys know what they are doing. Natvia is apparently now stocked in over 25,000 cafes across Australia and is now coming over here. Already 110 EAT sandwich shops nationwide are stocking it as their preferred sugar substitute.

natvia

Large companies like Coca Cola and Danone have been exploring this alternative to support their need to take a healthier approach. They need to. A single can of Coca Cola already exceeds the new recommended limit of 8.75 teaspoons, or 35g, of sugar in the UK. Out of interest, the NHS estimates the average UK adult consumes approximately 20 teaspoons of sugar a day!

Trop 50

This week I saw the first product advertised on telly that has used stevia as a substitute in a fruit juice – Trop50. This is the ‘healthier’ version of Tropicana juice, boasting 50% less sugar and calories. Mind you, it still has over 8g of sugar in any single 200 ml serving, which is about a quarter of the recommended daily dose – so don’t be fooled!

Another forward thinking company is my local Primrose Bakery. They announced at the end of last year that they were making a lemon and poppy seed bundt cake with natvia to meet customer demand for sugar free options, but one that they could proudly serve to all their customers. I admire what they are doing and appreciate a company that can still deliver great product whilst making a healthier choice in its production.

lemon poppy bundt

So natvia is the way to go. You heard it here first!

I finally got into Green Park last week to have a nose at the Maille shop in Piccadilly which opened at the end of October.

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This is the first London outpost of the successful French formula already in Paris and Dijon. It represents another outlet in the grand scheme of people doing one thing very well in order to promote their product and their brand.  I saw a lot of this in NYC and equally so there are plenty in London: doughnuts, coffee, pickles, oils, etc. It feels like the next iteration of the pop up culture so I guess it is a sign that sites are becoming available at prices that make sense. Roll on the food boutique.

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The shop does a really great job of telling the story of this mustard brand. It was founded some 265 years ago and shares the history in simple bold ways: old mustard jars in the window, the brand story told on bold black and gold decor along with pictures on the wall and fun quotes throughout the staircase leading you upstairs. There are tasting bars both upstairs and down so that you can engage with the whole range of products and boy, what a range! For those of you who think there is only wholegrain and dijon mustard in the range, think again. There are over 60 mustard products here ranging from the simple to the crazy. The luxury end boasts truffle and Chablis, or simple Sauternes which can be bottled traditionally from the pump. Also a surprise to me was the range of oils, vinegars and pickles also under the brand.

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Who knew there was so much you could do with mustard? This is a great place to find an unusual gift and to be treated to some good old fashioned service in a lovely retail environment.

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After a few NYE celebratory disasters, I opted to host dinner last night. It was a great excuse to dust down the cookery books and make some of those dishes that really are meant for a special occasion. I actually love the ritual of preparing for just such an evening especially when your friends are so receptive and last night was no exception.

After much planning, shopping, prepping and fussing, the menu was:

roasted beetroot and ricotta salad with caramelised pecans

coulibiac with saffron rice, baked fennel & green beans

butterscotch budino with caramel sauce and rosemary pine nut cookies

The starter was conceived around M’s wonderful fresh buffalo milk ricotta cheese which she brought with her direct from the dairy. What better way to celebrate something so special that to match with earthy freshly baked beetroot and the crunch of sweet pecan nuts? I added peppery rocket and a simple sherry vinegar and olive oil dressing. I also found some wonderful fresh red wine and fig sourdough bread at Gail’s bakery which was a perfect match.

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The Coulibiac is one of those dishes that I wheel out when I have time to make it. I have to admit that my first thought was to do my roast duck dish with quince sauce (a stalwart Moro recipe that is always a hit), but when I rang Richard Waller to order one of his fabulous Aylesbury ducks, his wife told me they had sold out after a manic build up to Christmas so they were taking a break and next ducks would only be available in February. Who knew duck was getting to be so popular as an alternative Christmas centrepiece?

My Coulibiac recipe is one of those paper copies that sit in the back of my recipe scrapbook from years gone by. I can’t for the life of me remember how I got it, but it is a Michel Roux version that has many elements and is 4 pages long, so I am not going to replicate it here. I have to admit that I immediately bypass the brioche dough element and buy all butter puff pastry, but after that I am true to the recipe, preparing the rice, onion, mushroom, pancake, egg and fish elements the day before so that it is a simple compilation job on the day.

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As for dessert, well this one was inspired by Nancy Silverton and her wonderful LA restaurant, Pizzeria Mozza. Ever since I tasted this dessert in LA some 5 years ago, I have wanted to try it out at home. Once again, it is a recipe of many parts most of which can be made up in advance but with two layers on the biscuit and three layers in the dessert, the preparation takes time… but it’s worth it!

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The evening closed with a New Year tip from my wonderful Spanish friend. She told me it was tradition as the clock strikes twelve to eat a grape for each strike, so you have to gobble twelve grapes in time to Big Ben and then make a wish. After a not so fun 2013, I hope she is right and that all our wishes will come true.

Merry 2014 everyone.

Christmas seems to have pounced upon us from a very warm mild place and suddenly I am desperately wrapping, ribboning and checking that I haven’t left anyone out.

I have been perusing the pages to see what food inspired gifts I have missed in my shopping this year and did my usual rounds of the department stores who are in their element at this time of year. You can really understand why they are destination shopping emporiums. Where Selfridges and Fortnums inspire, so Liberty was a difficult place to shop this year. But it is worth noting that there were deals to be had everywhere if you were prepared to wait. Note to self: hold out for the Selfridges 20% off day in 2014!

Daylesford

As for the independents, some continue to just do a wonderful job. Clearly my friends at Melrose and Morgan are a destination shop for treats galore with the most impressive bakery range of biscuits and cakes. I also thought that Daylesford managed their gift boxes very well this year. I know it’s not fashionable to say this, but I loved Carluccio’s as well, with their lovely panettone packaging and that grown up Terry’s chocolate orange: Clemente in Camicia.

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For something a bit more unusual, visit Brindisa, the new Maille shop in Piccadilly and here’s one from my Master of Wine expert friend: Hedonism Wines in Davies Street…amazing.

In no particular order, and in deference to the lovely army boy, here are a few top lists of my picks for this year:

Gadgets:

1. The soda stream: from £79.99. I got mine last year and love it simply for sparkling water, but I am sure you can do so much more. Try Lakeland for a good deal

Brindisa

2. Brindisa’s Iberico Bellota Pequeno Ham set £380. I know a friend of mine has bought this for her hubby and I am very jealous. How perfect. a whole bellota ham complete with stand, knife and a DVD to show you how to carve!

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3. The Wonderbag £59.99. This eco friendly cooking utensil is the creation of South African Sarah Collins. It reminded me of the street food we had in Peru and I am sure it harks back to the way our third world ancestors cooked. Now the latest trendy green must have in the kitchen, it is the perfect present as we hit the winter season for wonderful slow cooked meals. And, for every one we buy, Ms Collins donates one to a family in need in Africa. What a lady! No wonder she was named one of Fortune’s most powerful women entrepreneurs 2013.

Treats:

stollen bites

1. Stollen Bites from Melrose and Morgan. Well frankly anything from here so why stop there. The biscuit range, cakes, puds, savoury biscuits…I could go one. All wrapped in their own elegant, inimitable style and ideal for Christmas gift giving.

2. Kenspeckle cinder toffee coal may have sold out now, but they are worth noting for the future.

Maille pots

3. Maille mustard pots which make the most wonderful gift. You can splash out in the Sauternes or Chablis & black truffle variety or keep it simple. Up to you.

4. Amelia Rope chocolate cubes. Created last year, but still so relevant with bite sized treats of all her award winning flavours.

5. Selfridges bombes: more chocolate but a cute design and great stocking filler.

Drink: 

Not normally my speciality but special mention goes to the following:

1. Chase vodka’s seasonal flavour which is Rhubarb this year

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2. Grays and Feather ‘drink me‘ mini bottles are a must have – so cute!

3. Taster boxes: both whisky and gin feature heavily this year at places like Masters of Malt, and Compass Box Whisky Company.

4. For something completely different, how about renting a row of St Emilion Grand Cru vines. This £159.97 experience from Vintage Wine Gifts includes wine, accessories and a personal tour of the vineyard.

Best Christmas product 2013

And the prize for just the best product I have seen this year goes to … Asda (!) for their Christmas tree crumpets.

Crumpets

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