I am trying to run down my store cupboard in anticipation of moving to a new house. I have no doubt that I will find some weird and wonderful things lurking at the back from the 1980’s but the truth is that my store cupboard really is the source of some wonderful meals and I like having a repertoire of things to draw on.

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Pulses seem to be a staple in all sorts of forms. At the moment I am looking at bags of beans, bulgar wheat, pearl barley, lentils, different rices and just this week a new investment in Freekeh. This grain was first brought to my attention by team Ottolenghi. He describes the history of this green wheat here on his website and is of course one of the few people selling it at his online store. It was the smokiness that interested me, so tonight I am cooking with it for the first time.

caffe sant eustachio cup

I actually bought my box at Marks and Spencer. Having worked there for almost 20 years, I still have an affection for the food and always have a nose around their International brands. This is a discreet section towards the back but full of many interesting discoveries. It is under the management of the lovely Mr Seaby who is responsible for cherry picking the best ambient products from around the world to add interest into the grocery range and over recent years he has done a grand job. Food icons in the range include Kewpie mayonnaise, Alan Milliat nectars, Sant’Eustachio wood roasted coffee (arguably the best in the world!), El Navaricco pulses from Spain, pimenton (of course) and fabulous Swedish rye crackers (knackebrod) which remind me of my trip to the beautiful Stockholm.

Moon Valley up close

Recently I spotted this range from Moon Valley who are a social enterprise established in 2009, primarily working with Palestinian farmers in the West Bank and the surrounding countries, doing some great stuff with local people and for the local economy. The company was founded by Toby Coppel (ex Chief Strategy Officer, Yahoo) and a man who used to walk me round the fashion floor of M&S Bromley store when I was a mere Assistant Manager and he was the Director of Womenswear, Andrew Stone, now Lord Stone of Blackheath. This man was most definitely a genius, sharing a million and one ideas with me every week and praying that I had the sense to pick one or two that would really impact on sales. The one that sticks in my memory was an idea to display sale merchandise on roller racks in size order, which is common practice now, but was certainly revolutionary then. These two have on board as their CEO another colleague from M&S, David Job, who was a highly respected Senior Food Buyer when I worked in the food group, and is now managing this fabulous business.

freekeh pilaf

In order to do justice to my first time freekeh I went with Ottolenghi, who has a feast of wonderful recipes online. He is a dab hand at this type of cooking. This pilaf is right up my street, ensuring I have leftovers to feed me during the week and making sure to add flavour not only with plenty of herbs, but also the yogurt dressing, which I later transformed into tzatziki.

So what of the freekeh? Well, it was fab. I have always preferred bulgar wheat to couscous and now I think freekeh tops the bill.

It’s taken me the best part of this week to recover from our intense NYC tour and also to wade through all the photos we took.

There is no doubt that many UK cities, and in particular London, offer great inspiration but since we found ourselves in New York it seemed churlish not to make the most of it. So after the usual suspects and Brooklyn, we set off to mop up the remaining places. This city delivers people doing one thing well, whether it’s coffee, ice lollies, meatballs, dougnuts…..you name it they do it. As ever, my friends from Echochamber and also the lovely Lauren & Ben gave me the best tips making it easier to cherry pick the places to catch up on.

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Lauren & Ben epitomise the passionate New Yorker. They seem to be friends and connected with so many of the new food & drink people and know so much about where to go and what to consume. Every recommendation is spot on. They told me about Daniel Delaney last time and we popped into Briskettown when we were in Brooklyn.

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This time they told us about Mighty Quinn’s BBQ, which is similar to Pitt Cue Co. but keeps it more open with the kitchen butchery on show and stacks of wood to fuel the fire and produce great dishes such as the spare ribs and especially burnt ends. Signature bottled BBQ sauce is a must these days along with the t-shirt and baseball cap. Also essential is smoking the meat and slow cooking those delicious hard working cuts that are just the best when cooked like this.

Butchery at Mighty Quinn's

Butchery at Mighty Quinn’s

The obligatory signature sauce

The obligatory signature sauce

We also discovered Chobani which has become a bit of a phenomenon in the USA. This company was started by a Turkish immigrant, Hamdi Ulukaya, in 2005 and in the past 7 years has grown into a $1billion business. He keeps it simple, making authentic, natural strained or ‘greek’ yogurt with real fruit flavours and this formula has made it into the most popular yogurt brand in the US. It is coming over to the UK with some Tesco and Morrisons stores now stocking it.

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Frankly it is not the pot of yogurt that impressed me – rather their Soho shop. Set on the corner of Prince and W Broadway, this yogurt bar is so well done with a clever service counter, lovely finish to the outside and most especially a wonderful way of serving take away yogurt with glass dishes and a simple muslin lid held on with a red elastic band. Oh – and the yogurt wasn’t bad either!

inside Chobani

inside Chobani

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The other place that is less well known but continues to deliver is Sullivan Street Bakery in deepest darkest Hells Kitchen, making wonderful authentic Italian bread and pizza bianca.

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Founder/owner Jim Lahey keeps it real with an open kitchen, simple decor and edited range of breads that showcase his now well known techniques. I particularly liked these wooden ladders for the pizza which clearly allow the base to breathe and remain crisp crisp crisp.

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Finally, no trip to New York would be complete without a connection with the Cronut. I say a connection because it is still almost impossible to get one, but nevertheless, I whizzed off to Dominique Ansel’s Soho patisserie on Sunday morning to witness the craze. True to form, the Cronut queue is still going strong with a security guard manning the entrance and the order. When someone asked him why people were queueing for a pastry he simply said ….they need to get a life! Well, life or not, we went in to witness the process and actually had a really lovely not-cronut pastry, the DKA. It may not have made the media hype but we loved it and judging by the people around us who had managed to bag a cronut, it was markedly more manageable than the slightly sweet sticky signature. In fact, one couple sitting next to us said it wasn’t as good as the copy they had eaten the previous week!

The cronut factory continues with avengeance at the back of the bakery

The cronut factory continues with avengeance at the back of the bakery

Over the Brooklyn Bridge

Over the Brooklyn Bridge

I am in New York this week taking the Laverstoke project team around on a research trip.

It’s been a couple of years since my last trip and it is interesting to see that many good places have stood the test of time: Eataly, Chelsea Market, Dean & Deluca, Crate & Barrel, Williams Sonoma….all classic favourites of mine continuing to inspire in some way or other.

But the real change is the development of Brooklyn which was getting there last time I was here but is now the must go destination for anyone with an interest in food. It is here that all the exciting concepts are doing their thing and it is here that you connect with passionate people who want to tell you all about it. Some would say that Americans are annoying with their ‘have a nice day’ approach but for me, I find the enthusiasm infectious especially in Brooklyn where it is genuinely placed and much more informed, as well as infectious, than in many UK destinations.

As ever in NYC, the concepts are focused on doing one thing well and we embraced each one with gusto: coffee, ice cream, bakery, beer, pickles, doughnuts, meat, chocolate….plus lots more. I think it is the fact that these guys get the fundamentals that drive good retail: a focused concept, great product, simple relevant branding and cool young things delivering the service offer to underpin it all.

Lovely packaging at Blue Bottle coffee

Lovely packaging at Blue Bottle coffee

Tiered taps reflecting the ale strengths at Torst

Tiered taps reflecting the ale strengths at Torst

Williamsburg is the first stop particularly along Berry street and if you are lucky a weekend chance to eat your way through Smorgasburg market. Particular favourites were Mast Brothers chocolate, Toby’s Estate and Blue Bottle coffee, Torst, OddFellows ice cream and Briskettown. Interestingly two of these concepts (plus the rather lovely pizza place Paulie Gee’s) were designed by hOmE who are obviously a clever bunch. There is an honesty and simplicity that showcases the product to its best potential. At Torst it is the wooden beer taps and glasses that say all that is needed to be said about their range and credibility. At Mast, the open production and piles of cocoa bean sacks give credibility to the product and the central table of beautifully packaged chocolate bars let’s the product do the talking not only in their display but also in their samples.

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Further south going towards Pacific Heights a special mention should go to Brooklyn Brine and in particular Jenny who had us with her passion for pickles. This lovely lady is everything you could dream of having as a member of staff and she was incredibly generous not only in her time showing us around the rear factory and talking us through all they have achieved but also in her insistence that we all took a free jar away with us. Who knew there could be so much joy to be found in a pickle?

Back in Manhattan we pooled our pics and pondered the industrial designs, the clever touches and the beautiful pieces of reclaimed kit that were so achingly trendy but also so raw against these fabulous shiny new brands. We have taken much from our last couple of days and still have so much more to discover so watch this space.

Good old New York…it never disappoints.

 

I had a lovely day today with my beautiful youngest nephew Asher who asked if he could come over and cook with me for his birthday present. Well, that felt like more of a present for me than him, but who was I to argue?

garlic press

I love the fact that this seemed such a treat for him and started the day with suitable cookery presents: a cook book, a recipe file and a garlic press. Well, OK, the Joseph Joseph garlic press may not be the most conventional present for a 12 year old, but he says he likes it so I’m going with it.

Glossy chocolate pavlova on its way to the oven

Glossy chocolate pavlova on its way to the oven

We took some time to decide what to cook, but plumped for my favourite chicory recipe (see Chicory Chick) for lunch and then flicked through my file of torn out recipes to see what took our fancy. Meringues were definitely on the cards and all we had to decide was what flavour. It seems chocolate or coffee were the flavours of choice so Green & Blacks mocha dark chocolate was perfect.  Then we went off piste with ricotta and spinach scotch eggs.  A weird combo, I know, but we enjoyed ourselves.

Spinach and ricotta scotch eggs

Spinach and ricotta scotch eggs

A trip to Waitrose was so much more fun together with Ash wheeling the trolley and packing the bags. It made me realise how routine the supermarket trip is for me and how much it can be improved when you open yourself up to really shop it, with seasonality and newness to inspire.

When we got back, it was a fun filled afternoon of cooking, washing up, chatting, eating and generally connecting with this special young man. And I guess that’s what food does  – it connects us. Most great chefs talk fondly of early memories cooking with their mother or grandmother. That is a loving special place to start their passion for this great art.

A shared meal is also an intimate and wonderful thing. Those romantic dinners for two are a beautiful thing, and so is a Sunday lunch shared with friends or just a small present of a freshly baked treat taken as a token gesture to cheer or restore someone. Every culture has a food that restores and rebuilds. In my Jewish faith there is nothing better than chicken soup and that alone brings warmth to my heart.

The best birthday weekend sharing food with friends in Norfolk

The best birthday weekend sharing great food and good wine with friends in Norfolk

We also understand the benefit of sitting round a table and sharing a meal together. My wonderful friends in Cape Town have this great routine with their nephew and nieces when they share dinner at the end of the day. Everyone has to tell the group the best thing of the day, the worst thing of the day and the funniest thing of the day. It is simple, insightful and open. The smallest thing is the most telling thing and in this naive game comes a chance to deal with the issues of the day and support each other in the challenges.

I guess this ability to connect is what I most appreciate and embrace with my love of food.

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