I love it when a meal comes together.

Beautifully caramelised chicory to bring out the sweetness

Beautifully caramelised chicory to bring out the sweetness

I had a Dutch friend over this weekend and she was somewhat bemused to find I had chicory in the fridge. Apparently she has never met a Brit who would ever have purchased such a thing as it is generally perceived as very bitter. I grew up with my Mum liking chicory so I guess I was just more used to the flavour or something. Well happily this unloved plant came into its own at home tonight.

otto endive

I really fancied trying to make something a bit different and tasty for dinner and the focus on the bitter stuff brought to mind a favourite recipe of mine. It is Ottolenghi’s Caramelised Endive with Serrano Ham.

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I kind of adapted it tonight so that I could use up a few bits that were already on hand. But the result was as good as ever. I was particularly pleased to be able to slice up some more of that wonderful Cotswold Curer pancetta which I bought a few weeks ago at Stroud market. It amazes me how inspired I can be by something so simple, but honestly, this stuff is just wonderful and that small piece goes a long long way. Much nicer than the Serrano ham in the recipe. I also managed to use up some panko breadcrumbs which were loitering in the cupboard (I know – it says a lot that my cupboards have that loitering) and grana padano instead of parmesan…but the result ladies and gentlemen…..sitting alongside a nicely dressed green salad …. just yum.

It's possibly a bit well done for some, but I like well toasted!

It’s possibly a bit well done for some, but I like well toasted!

Caramelised endive with Serrano ham

Extract from Sami Tamimi and Yotam Ottolenghi’s Ottolenghi: The Cookbook

Published in 2008 by Ebury Press

Serves 6

Nir Feller, who’s got the most infectious zeal for food, helped develop this dish when running our kitchen in Notting Hill. It’s ideal for preparing ahead of time. Have it ready in the baking dish and put it in the oven when you need it. It makes an impressive starter for a cold winter night.

Ingredients

6 endives, cut in half lengthways
40g unsalted butter
4tsp caster sugar
50g sourdough breadcrumbs
70g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
2tbsp thyme leaves
120ml whipping cream
12 thin slices of Serrano ham
Olive oil for drizzling
2tsp chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional)
Coarse sea salt and black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 200˚C/gas mark 6. Begin by caramelising the endive. You will probably have to do it in 2-3 batches, depending on the size of your largest frying pan; the endive halves need to fit lying flat without overlapping. If working in two batches, put half the butter and half the sugar in the pan and place over a high heat.

Stir to mix. As soon as the butter starts to bubble, place six endive halves facing down in the pan and fry for 2-3 minutes, until golden. You might need to press them down slightly. Don’t worry if the butter goes slightly brown. Remove and repeat the process with the remaining butter, sugar and six endive halves.

Line a tray with baking parchment and arrange the endives on it, caramelised side up. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper.

Mix the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, thyme, cream, a quarter of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Spoon this mixture over the endives and top each one with a slice of ham. Roast in the oven for 15-20 minutes, until the endives feel soft when poked with a knife. Serve hot or warm, drizzled with some olive oil and sprinkled with the chopped parsley, if using.

CarfestIt has been a busy week as the farm prepared for CarFest.

A full moon over the glamping field

A full moon over the glamping field

How wonderful must it be to combine your three favourite things and make up a festival that then raises millions for Children in Need. Well this is what Chris Evans achieved last year combining food, cars & music and year two promised to be bigger and better. It was amazing to see the farm transformed from operating as a farm to becoming the home for tens of thousands of people. I am not quite sure what the poor sheep will be eating this week after the festival-goers have trampled their dinner but I have to say that the event itself was just a wonderful experience. The atmosphere was so lovely and as the lady helping cash up, I can honestly say that I was shocked by how much people will spend on a simple burger, sausage or spit roast.

The tea vintage team get it so right

The tea vintage team get it so right

There were also loads and loads of mobiles with nice offers from people like The Collective yogurt, Belvoir drinks, Ryvita mobiles and Jamie Oliver’s Fabulous Feasts, but the one that grabbed my attention was Tea Vintage. They just captured the mood with fun music, clever table settings and a great offer.

After a full weekend of farm festivities, it was a relief to have the bank holiday and to depend on trusty friends to find the perfect place to relax this Monday. Mr Jones chose Smokehouse in Islington which is the new home of Neil Rankin. He comes with a long list of cool credentials, having worked through Chez Bruce, Pitt Cue Co. and John Salt hype but we were actually relieved that he had lost the whole lick-a-brick thing and just got on with what he does best. We were sad to see that the Bank Holiday delivered a Sunday menu only and I don’t feel that really showcased his best Green Egg/smokey offer, but everything we had made us feel that we would want to go back and try the full menu.

An impressive craft beer with over 20 in tap

An impressive craft beer with over 20 in tap

And the drinks list was impressive with a huge amount of craft beers on tap as well as a whole host of others, and wines by the glass, carafe and bottle.

For a chilled out, laid back, tasty and fairly reasonable plate of food, try Smokehouse.

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This week I have been catching up on Raymond Blanc’s How to Cook Well series on BBC iplayer. I’m not normally the biggest fan of his shows, but I like the set up of these and to be honest it is great to be able to fast forward through the less interesting stuff onto those recipes and processes that interest me.

I like the restaurant tips but my favourite bits of programme are those he shares with an expert in a related field. There were two that particularly caught my attention. Firstly there was Dave Pynt. I was peeved when I realised I missed his Burnt Enz pop up last year as I have had Etxebarri at the top of my dream list for some time now, and this would have been my closest connection which didn’t involve a flight. So to see him doing fabby things with leeks, scallops and a firepit just made me sad….and as committed as ever to get to that Spanish top 50 restaurant. Anyone fancy?

Nathan Mills with Raymond

Nathan Mills with Raymond

But the recipe of all recipes that tempted me was the slow cooked Asian flavoured beef shin, although I would replace the papaya salad with something more hearty like mash! Raymond shared this segment with butcher Nathan Mills of The Butchery fame. Nathan claimed he was the only London butcher cutting from the carcass but that simply isn’t true as I have been working for the whole of this year with the guys from Laverstoke Park Farm and both their shops on the farm and in Twickenham work with carcasses which are delivered direct from the organic, biodynamic farm. Still, Nathan did demonstrate the benefit of carcass butchery showing a host of cuts that are not generally available. I immediately rang the Twickenham shop manager, Andy, ordered my piece of beef shin and planned a weekend feast.

Laverstoke Park Farm Shop in Twickenham

Laverstoke Park Farm Shop in Twickenham

There is no doubt that buying meat from a qualified butcher is the best way to go and when the meat is as wonderful as this, I feel a responsibility to do something special. The hanging carcasses in the shop are fabulously visual and not just for theatre, but genuinely the best way to retail meat. In the hands of qualified farmers and butchers, you understand the full value of great quality meat and how you should be eating it.

Shin of Laverstoke Park organic beef

Shin of Laverstoke Park Farm organic beef

Butcher and shop manager Andy cut me a wonderful piece of beef shin which was the centrepiece of a fabulous lunch housed chez Jones. Their rooftop terrace is a celebration of Eug’s greenfingers and as it is right in the heart of Westminster, you are greeted with the chimes of Big Ben to remind you of the day passing in glorious sunshine. JR was also in attendance and at the last minute the lovely Mr and Mrs Flapjack Foods joined with award winning produce, more of which later. So the pressure was on to do the shin justice.

The pig looks on...

I have to admit that I did adapt the recipe a bit. Firstly I substituted lovely banana shallots for white onions to add more sweetness and then I upped the ante on all the Asian flavours. Half a chilli was now 2 chillis, 1/2 tsp five spice was more like a tblsp and I kind of splashed around with the other ingredients to really bump up the volume. In the end, we agreed it was absolutely the right things to do and could even have stumped up a bit more. We went with stir fried noodles with garlic broccoli and ginger carrots to accompany and four and a half hours later, lunch was served.

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Everyone agreed it was totally yummy and I would certainly make it again. Very easy, very tasty and a great example of the benefits of slow cooking.

2* Great Taste Award Carrot cake from Flapjack Fabulous Food

2* Great Taste Award Carrot cake from Flapjack Fabulous Food

Dessert was presented by Mrs Flapjack Fabulous Food. It was her signature carrot cake which recently won TWO stars at the Great Taste Awards. The best in carrot cake class by a whole star and well deserved it was too. She and hubby make the most wonderful cakes for their business alongside a whole host of other yumminess and we all understood why she was such a winner this year.

Chez Jones rooftop revelling

Chez Jones rooftop revelling

So another lovely weekend lunch with friends, sunshine and lovely food. As they say on Masterchef…it doesn’t get better than this.

F&M at the Serpentine Gallery

F&M at the Serpentine Gallery

This week we had a meeting at Fortnum & Mason and it was interesting to hear their development plans.

I have always pondered how the big three London department stores: Harrods, Selfridges and Fortnums, find their place in the battle for the boutique of choice. Under the management of Ewan Venters the food offer at Selfridges was transformed and now he is a year into applying himself to Fortnums so I have no doubt they will flourish in their fortunes.

It seems clear to me the place that Harrods holds in the Knightsbridge arena and Selfridges has really cornered the contemporary edgy design-led market so where does that leave Fortnums? They are the only ones with true British credentials, a traditional, elegant style and a selection of food & drink that really has destination status worldwide. But the challenge is how to take that into the future. In the capable hands of Mr Venters it seems they are paving their way with aplomb.

Take, for example, their current offer at the Serpentine Gallery Pavillion.

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Every year, the space between the gallery and the park is given over to one well known architect to erect a structure of some sort that will house a Summer experience and with the calibre of commissions they get, the Serpentine really do boast a long legacy of amazing artists including Ai WeiWei, Frank Gehry and Zaha Hadid. This year, it was Sou Fujimoto, the third Japanese architect and the youngest person so far, who took over the space. It’s one of the few cultural experiences in London that I make a point of visiting each year and so today I ventured down.

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I did of course have another ulterior motive, which was to see the food offer that Fortnums created there. If this is a reflection of where they are going, then all will be well. The team are decked up in a trendy t-shirt and converse trainer uniform which nods to the formality with a waistcoat & tie printed on and the offer is cleverly conceived with easy to serve pre-packed boxes of treats.

Making up our Hamperling

Making up our Hamperling

You can opt for boxes of cakes, sandwiches, salads and other treats, but the hero product is the ‘hamperling‘. This is a hamper on the go created from a clever cardboard construction which opens up to reveal a lunch for one or a plentiful afternoon tea for two combining the best of the boxes, and costing £25. The food was as fresh as a daisy and looked fabulous spread out on the clever place setting. There was even a disposable rug of sorts for us to create a perfect picnic on this lovely Summer day.

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