I know I generally write about all things food but this week I wanted to share something a little different with you.

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Some time ago I saw a book called Letters of Note raising funding to be published through Unbound. This compilation of letters from across the world and throughout history was such a fabulous insight into many wonders. Not only was the content moving, funny, inspiring and stimulating, but also seeing the actual handwriting and letterheads connected you to that time in a way that we have lost in this modern era of snapshot bulletpoints and arial font typing. So I subscribed and helped in a very tiny way to get this masterpiece published.

Since then, Shaun Usher has published a second volume, progressed to Lists of Note and more recently Letterheady. But the most interesting development of all has been Letters Live, which I attended this week. See more here

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Set in the impressive, art deco Freemasons Hall in London, the concept began three years ago and has gone from strength to strength. Bubbledogs provide the catering, and there are papers donated by Monoset so that you can write a letter there and then which will be posted anywhere in the world by the team on the night. Money is also raised for literacy charities.

Hearing a letter read out loud brings a different dimension to it anyway and when you add in some of our most impressive actors to take the helm, the result is just magical. You don’t know when you arrive who is going to read and what letters are going to be shared but there is a sense that whatever the combination is going to be, it will be a good one.

The presenters for us were Toby Jones, Stephen Mangan, Tobias Menzies, Louise Brealey, Jarvis Cocker, Karen Dotrice and the inimitable Miriam Margolyes. They presented individually or together as each letter dictated and brought each character to life putting you right in the moment that it was written. From Napoleon to his beloved Josephine to a letter written this year by US presidential advisors putting forward a case why Donald Trump should not be elected president, there was something for everyone. When do you get the chance to journey in one night through the lives of Winston Churchill, Basil Rathbone, Iggy Pop, Tom Hanks as a kid, an Elvis fan, Rolling Stone, Che Guevara, Star Trek’s casting notes, MGM to Disney, Billy Connolly, JK Rowling and a particularly wonderful complaint letter to Continental airlines, plus a few more in between.

Topped and tailed by new musical talent, the star of the show for me was Ms Margolyes. Not only is her diction, intonation and general presence so impressive, but her timing is just fabulous. With one look she brought the house down. She is quite incredible.

So if you get the chance, go! and go again. I am sure each session will bring a different dimension and as one who had that inspiration, it just remains for me to bring back the art of writing letters. I vow to write one every month. This is a new addition for my 50 at 50 ambition – more of that in due course.

 

 

When Yotam Ottolenghi burst onto the food scene in the late 1990’s with Sami Tamimi it seemed that they would finally put Middle Eastern food onto the map in a modern contemporary way. Sure enough, their cookbooks, restaurants and style of food captured the British imagination finding just the right balance of flavours and styles that embraced but didn’t frighten off. We suddenly added pomegranate molasses to our store cupboards and for over a decade they were still owning that stage solo.

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In 2013 came class of Ottolenghi in the form of Sarit Packer and husband Itamar Srulovich at the tiny, but always busy Honey & Co. This couple seemed to build on the Ottolenghi formula with more heart and passion but still understated and easy to relate to. Traditional pastries like babka sat alongside sweet, spiced, fruity dishes and suddenly we were re-evaluating those Middle Eastern flavours again.

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Challah the Palomar way

Then came The Palomar. This team from Machneyuda, Jerusalem, brought the true vibrancy and energy that permeates an eating experience to the street of London. Many worried about its reputation for being more nightclub than restaurant but the truth is that the food spoke for itself. Finally we were moving on from felafel and kebabs and presenting food that had the colour, energy, flavour and excitement that should be coming from such a vibrant part of the world.

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Gourmet kebabs

In the past year some of the best food I have eaten has been in the same ilk. After Berber & Q helped us understand the versatility of tahini, so Le Bab made us reconsider the common kebab. My meal there with E was so simple, tasty and great value plus a chance to rediscover the whole Kingly Court area which is a hidden gem just above Regent Street.

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Carrot Borani

Then came my favourite of them all: Oklava. This small team have a great heritage behind all of them and have created the most wonderful place to eat modern Turkish food. It was everything I wanted it to be and much more. Supper with E again and a great discovery. We tried way too many dishes. E adored the crispy pomegranate glazed lamb breast with yogurt. I loved the chilli roast cauliflower but the surprise for me was the Carrot Borani. It was beautiful to look at and incredible to eat. Complemented with some really interesting Turkish wines it encapsulates this new style of eating.

Overall this up to date take on such an ancient cuisine is really encapsulating where food is going. It is adventurous, colourful, and tasty. It is also good value, is more vegetarian focused and creates a relaxed, often communal way of eating that is not a formulated concept, rather a modern way of eating. Cutlery is optional. Flavours are powerful. Eating is a great experience.

Next on the list? The Barbary. Sister the The Palomar. Bring it on!

The lovely girls in my shop have rather generously shared their lergy with me this week and whilst I am sure at their age it is easy to brush it off, I have to admit to finding it a little harder. Bring on the antioxidants.

Whilst I peruse with interest the books of Amelia Freer, Ella Woodward and Hemsley and Hemsley they are a bit too worthy for me. I do believe in cooking from scratch, avoiding processed food and a big chunk of fruit n veg. But my dishes are probably a bit more in the real world of eating. My weekly shop puts good food in the fridge, freezer and cupboard and ensures there are options throughout the week with a bit more time at weekends to experiment.

So when I opened the fridge this afternoon, pretty hungry after my massage and return power walk I was drawn to a slightly sad old cauliflower (OK – I realise how daft that looks now I have written it). Anyway. This brassica is a new revelation for me with my healthier hat on. Gone are the cauli cheese options and in come roasting, ricing and charring which all deliver flavour through the cooking  method before you do anything else at all.

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Today was cauliflower steak day as I needed to feel meaty and full. But I took the opportunity to roast the rest of the florets so I have them this week for lunchtime salads. Cutting right down the middle is quite satisfying. Just pan fry in a bit of oil (I am using avocado oil at the mo) either side to brown and then chuck in the oven for 15 minutes or until cooked.

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Meanwhile I knocked up a dressing from what I had. Tomatoes were a must given their health properties and for me where there are tomatoes, there is also garlic, chilli, olive oil and lemon (juice & rind). Add to that spring onion, capers and parsley and there you have it.

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By the time I had chopped and mixed together the cauliflower was pretty much ready. Just a chance to clear away and then I could relax and take in the sunshine, not only on my plate but also in the garden. I must get better after that!

It’s been a disappointing few weeks food wise.

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It started with a trip to the much talked about Padella. Anyone and everyone has been talking about it since the duo behind Trullo opened in their Borough Market location. I really enjoyed my Trullo experience so was quite excited by this talk. What’s not to like? Hand made pasta, simple menus, singular concept. The branding and design are lovely – simple. We went on a quiet Sunday and despite the talk of huge queues walked straight to a table. In fact, it was pretty empty which probably didn’t help the experience but it’s all about the pasta, isn’t it?

So the first thing to say is that the Pici cacao e pepe is one of the best dishes you will taste this year. I say taste, because the plate is pretty small and as we were sharing everything it really was a mouthful only of loveliness. The hand crafted, chunky pici is a pasta shape I don’t know and that cheesy, pepper sauce is thick and glossy and salty and yummy. Enough said.

The disappointment was everything else. Burrata that isn’t a patch on my friend M’s creation. Other somewhat average pastas and added to that, a waiter who really was pretty pushy, with no sense of a relaxed Sunday lunch. Thinking back, he probably set the whole tone.

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Fast forward a week and I once again joined the Jones clan for a meal trip to one of our favourites. Pitt Cue Co. has been a tried and tested meal ever since it operated all those years ago from a food truck under the Hungerford Bridge at the Southbank. When it moved to its tiny dungeon location in Soho it had charm and style which is probably why it was packed. The tables were cosy, the sauces in bottles flung on the tables, the cocktails were dirty and the food was lipsmackingly tasty….eaten with your hands and the odd dribble.

This year it clearly had some investment and they unveiled their new snazzy site which has moved to the city. That alone should have set our alarm bells going. It was clearly going to be a different experience. The restaurant itself is a lesson in industrial chic. The bar area talks about home brewed tipples and has high bar seating for walk ins. The open kitchen boasts a huge American-made bespoke grill and their blackboard menu showcases a chalk drawing of their signature mangalitsa pig. But the team have been very open about shunning all the old favourites upon which their reputation was built. Gone is the pulled pork, the pickle back, the enamelware crockery, the BBQ sauces on the table. They see this as a more grown up offering which steps away from the US BBQ theme that they started from and which has been much copied over the years. Why?

In leaving their roots, they have become much like many other places with no real lead. What a shame. It feels like they have gone from leaders to followers. In one article, co-founder Jamie Berger talked about the limited space in Soho which meant limited storage and the issues of running out of things. The irony of all this is that when we got there the restaurant had run out of all the pork on the mains menu. On a bleak Monday evening all they could offer us was the feather blade, the lamb special and the full fish selection. No ribs (a destination dish if ever there was one) , no pulled pork (obviously) and absolutely no cuts of the signature beast unless you count the cold fatty ham. For those who never knew what they were missing, I am sure they will leave satisfied. For the rest …. you will have to reminisce and pray there is the odd rib left for when you get there.

And much like the Padella experience, the disappointment was made so much worse by an aggressive Aussie waitress who obviously had no time for our reminiscing and no respect for the Jones’ commitment to this brand for all those years. Her speed and dismissive service just made me nervous.

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And so to last night. I had the dubious task of recommending a place to meet my New York foodie friends who were over for a couple of days only. I have previously written of their incredible wedding last year which showcased their favourite foods and culminated in a dessert spread from the fab Dominique Ansel. So the pressure was on. I decided to plump for a tried and tested chef…. Nuno Mendes. Taberna do Mercado harks back to his Portuguese roots and once again has been well written up by the many bloggers and writers whose job it is to critique these places.

Maybe it was the fact it was a bank holiday and so very quiet (how come they could only squeeze us in for an 8.45 booking when the place was three quarters empty?) or perhaps once again the annoying waitress whose only criteria for recommending things was the price tag. But once again the food underwhelmed. Surely authentic food that draws from homely childhood cooking would be hot, tasty, embracing. Sadly it was too much style over substance. Some dishes were nice: the mussels, the pork sandwich, the clever olive oil sponge cake. But I wanted so much more than nice. Hey ho.

This morning, I was in my own kitchen. I chopped up some sweet juicy Isle of Wight seasonal tomatoes, drizzled with good olive oil, a dribble of sherry vinegar, and added a good pinch of salt. Then I mixed in a bit of shallot, feta and basil chiffonade. Set atop a toasted piece of sourdough toast it captured the fresh, vibrant flavours that only perfect, matching ingredients can and has set me up for the day. Forget these fancy restaurants. I am staying put for a while.

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