The man himself – Bruno Loubet
Bruno Loubet was my first chef crush.
I remember him turning carrots at the BBC Good Food Show many many years ago and I was in awe of someone who could be so passionate about a little orange vegetable. Many years later I was equally enamoured by another carrot loving chef, this time Dan Barber of Blue Hill. Dan was extolling the virtues of his carrots, grown organically at his Blue Hill restaurant on Stone Barns farm.
Course number one of our incredible meal at Blue Hill at Stone Barns
These little beauties demonstrate the benefit of great sourcing and respectful farming, which add up to something oh so much better. Our first few courses at that restaurant were all raw, eaten without cutlery and just super super tasty. No carrot has ever tasted sweeter and if you don’t believe me, listen to the podcast and see what Dan has to say.
But back to Bruno, I followed him ever since the food show, trying his various signature recipes and eating at his restaurants until he escaped to Australia. On his return, he went back to classic Loubet land at the Zetter hotel, but it was apparently only a toe in whilst he brought to us his new approach to food which is now well and truly launched at The Grain Store. It is said to have been 2 years in the making and a concept that he has wanted to create for many more years than that.
The overall premise is to respect the vegetable as much as the protein. This is not a vegetarian restaurant and nor would you expect that from a classic French chef, but Bruno certainly redresses the balance and that ticks lots of boxes for me. The decor is funky, the menu interesting and there are great cocktails to match. Partnering up with the equally fabulous Tony Conigliaro is another sign that Bruno has his finger on the current pulse. There is a great cocktail menu including some wonderful non-alcoholic ones. My French Blonde came complete in a brandy glass and was just fabulous.
Overall, I enjoyed the tone of the place. It is open, honest and just a little bit quirky. The designers have had some fun with this one and at times it is a little bit over done but it adds up to something different and I like that. The best bit for me is the kitchen itself which is at the heart of this vast space, with Loubet plonk in the centre conducting the orchestra. He is an imposing host at the centre of the modular pass with nothing separating the kitchen from the seating. It’s almost as if we are sitting in his kitchen somewhere in the country….and that’s hard to create in the middle of Kings Cross.
Loubet is trying to show us that we don’t have to eat meat to eat a meal. It goes back to the way his family ate and the truth is that most people shouldn’t be eating meat every day. Not only is it not great for you (or your purse) but it’s also not great for the environment. We shouldn’t need to breed the amount of animals that are projected to be needed just to suffice our appetites. Loubet understands this and is leading the way. Clearly people are following and I would recommend you do too.
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