Archives for category: British

Did you know that there are more hits on Google if you search “food” than if you search “sex”!

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It only goes to prove that we are increasingly interested in all things food. We read about it, watch it on telly, idolise those involved in the industry and of course shop it every week, if not every day. In 1998 Henrietta Green decided to replicate the US farmer’s market that she had visited and site one in Borough Market, Southwark. Now it is one of London’s top tourist destinations, setting the pace for literally hundreds of other markets that are popping up all over the country.

And then there is the food fair or festival. I currently work on Laverstoke Park Farm and if I had asked for my salary to be upped by £1 for every event we get asked to support, then I would be a very rich lady. It seems that every school, entrepreneur, local council and general foodie is creating an event to bring together beautiful crafts and foods from around their region. Not only do we have events celebrating seasonal, local and artisan fair but also some that celebrate iconic products that we produce UK-wide: the Isle of Wight Garlic Festival, The Dorset Seafood Festival, The Great British Beer Festival, The Cromer and Sheringham Crab & Lobster Festival and not forgetting the Galway Oyster Festival, to name but a few.

Cheese

My focus last week was on cheese. I volunteered my services to help the farm’s Dairy Manager and expert cheese maker promote our cheeses at a fair in Melton Mowbray. It must be said that British cheese really is up there in world class stakes with varieties like Cheddar, Stilton, Single Gloucester and Lancashire putting the areas they come from on the world cheese stage. The British Cheese Board state that there are over 700 named British cheeses produced in the UK and we host both the World Cheese Awards in Birmingham and of course the ‘cheese Oscars’: the International Cheese Awards in Nantwich of all places.

So our little jaunt up to Melton Mowbray was not to be sniffed at. It was home to the Artisan Cheese Fair hosting over 40 cheese makers alongside other specialists including, of course, the eponymous Pork Pie. Driving up early on Sunday morning, I was struck by just how wonderfully British this all really was. The countryside around there is so pretty and with the sun shining and the early yellow hues of rapeseed cropping up I arrived with a positive spring in my step despite the early start.

M serves up some samples

M serves up some samples

Laverstoke Park Farm really is one of the most incredible farms in the UK. We are organic and biodynamic and specialise in buffalo which combine to be pretty unique and so we were showcasing our wonderful Buffalo Mozzarella amongst other things. Our Dairy Manager and supreme cheesemaker, M, is one of life’s beautiful people. She has previously been an opera singer, a model, a music therapist and ultimately an award winning cheese maker. She has a connection not only with the buffalo themselves but also with the production process which results in the making of wonderful things in the dairy. Our ice cream, yogurt, cheese and butter all benefit from the natural properties of buffalo milk which is creamy and rich because it has a high ratio of solids and many people who are dairy intolerant find that buffalo milk is OK for them, which is good because it makes everything taste so scrummy. So our little stand was very popular and the 7 hour stint flew by.

Montgomery's cheddar

Wandering around this fair in the old Cattle Market of such a traditional town, you can’t fail to be overwhelmed by the sense of British food heritage. Here are third, fourth and fifth generation cheesemakers who have been running their dairies and supporting their local trade through the ups and downs of centuries. Swaledale cheese dates back to the 11th century in Yorkshire and Keen’s unpasteurised Cheddar was established in 1899. Dairies such as Colston Bassett and Cropwell Bishop have spearheaded the blue cheese tradition and Keen’s are joined by the likes of Lincolnshire Poacher and Montgomery’s in making Cheddar from the early 1900’s.

M also introduced me to some of the newer cheese makers who were there that day. We fall into that category with our mozzarella and my favourite of the others was Lyburn and the lovely Mike Smales. He makes a cheese which is like a Gouda. The Old Winchester is just yummy and deserves all of the many medals it has received. I will definitely be going back for more of that.

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In the afternoon, our experience of British traditions was increased with the morris dancer display which took place just by our stall and also a local band who entertained us with a variety of classic tunes which we jigged along to. The sun thankfully shone and by 5 we were packed up and on the road.

I couldn’t resist popping along to say hi to some great friends who live not far from there in Leicester armed with pork pies and cheese. What could be better? wonderful food, fabulous friends and the sun setting over the great British countryside.

PIGS

Pigs are very intelligent, clean, social animals with a wonderful sense of smell, which is why they are great truffle hunters. So we should love them for that reason alone. Oh, and they also taste great!

As a nice Jewish girl, I am not sure it is legal to have such a penchant for pig, but what can a girl do? It is definitely the meat of the moment having showcased its best sides through Jamie’s shoulder of pork recipe, the trend a few years ago for pork belly, the whole scratchings fashion and latterly, barbecued ribs a la Pitt Cue co.

Tea towels from Ham

Tea towels from Ham

This Christmas, my presents and cards will also have a piggy feel thanks to the wonderful Jo at Ham who is manufacturing beautiful piggy based things for the kitchen here in Britain.

The Pig Sign

This week, I finally managed to get down to the New Forest to have lunch at The Pig hotel, which has been on my list for some time now. Created by successful hotelier Robin Hutson, this reasonably priced, 26 room hotel is the latest incarnation from the Lime Wood Group. Mr Hutson is a bit of an inspiration in the hotel world. He created the Hotel du Vin chain which reinvented the town hotel and now he has applied his immense talent to the country hotel. The beauty of The Pig is the walled garden, which is central to the concept and really does define the identity of the place. By bringing the food into the heart of the hotel, The Pig has partnered two key elements required to satisfy even the most discerning lodger.

The walled garden treats

The walled garden treats

Cavolo Nero is such a wonderful veg

Cavolo Nero is such a wonderful veg

The Pig menu is created from within a 25 mile radius with chef, forager and gardener working well together to create wonderful British garden food. Everything was presented with a nod to garden, from the first seating in the Victorian conservatory to the presentation of the menu and table complete with herb pots. But the most exciting part was the menu itself. It was creative and interesting and the food generally delivered in the same vein. This wasn’t exciting cutting edge food and some of the flavour was not as intense as I would have expected, but we had a great time and a thoroughly enjoyable, good value meal.

The Victorian conservatory houses the restaurant

The Victorian conservatory houses the restaurant

The Pig hotelThe whole experience reminded me of two other places I have written about before in Top of the World and The Promised Land.

The Stone Barn that houses Blue Hill

The Stone Barn that houses Blue Hill

The first is Blue Hill at Stone Barns, home of the brilliant chef, Dan Barber in New York. This is the best overall meal experience I have ever had. It began with a tour of the farm and ended with a 28 course meal that blew my mind. The first 10 course were vegetarian and the first 12 course were eaten without cutlery!

What the team at Blue Hill don’t know about veggies is not worth knowing. It was the Driven by Flavour podcast that first introduced me to chef Barber, changing my whole outlook on vegetables, and was the only reason I went to Blue Hill in the first place. If you ever get the chance, go there, take the farm tour, see what it is these guys do with every single element of meat and veg and just bathe in the glory of these ultra talented passionate people. Ask about the charcoal, go and see the pigs and make the most of the incredible knowledgable passionate staff who will tell you everything you need to know about the meal. Each table gets something slightly different as the chef creates dishes from what is available so go for it…we did! The Blue Hill clan are genuinely changing the world with their revelations and delivering incredible food at the same time. This is the premier league of garden centric restaurants and it doesn’t get much better than this.

One little part of the garden at Babylonstoren

One little part of the garden at Babylonstoren

The other place that puts a garden at the heart of its hotel and restaurant is Babylonstoren in the Winelands, near Cape Town. The menu and cooking here was not as exciting as Blue Hill, but in terms of design and gardens, this wins hands down. My ‘room’ was actually a cottage which I could quite happily have lived in forever and every single part of the hotel embraced the surrounding grounds. Room service had touches of herbs, you were positively encouraged to go pick your own and cook in your room and the staff even let me go cook the morning breads for breakfast. This is a piece of heaven and a must if you are in the area.

My herby fruity breakfast bread baked alongside the Babylonstoren chef who cooks for Babel restaurant

My herby fruity breakfast bread baked alongside the Babylonstoren chef who cooks for Babel restaurant

Garden centric restaurants and hotels rule and I hope that The Pig is one of many that follow in this country.

This week I have been pondering the latest fashion in restaurant offers to help shape a project that I am working on.

The whole seasonal, local sourcing remains front of mind for most food innovation and is still cited by many as the trend but the truth is that it should now simply be a way of life for anyone worth their weight in the food world.

The Meatball Shop, NYC

Most menus now read like an essay with locally sourced precursors added to each & every item listed and I find myself slightly bored by it all. I tend to be drawn to restaurants that specialise in a unique cuisine or one key dish I like such as roast chicken or meatballs rather than the more generic menus simply because I can’t get excited by these any more….and I can’t guarantee a good meal.

So where does local, seasonal go from here?

I think the next iteration of that fashion is regionality. Not just regional ingredients but regional recipes made with seasonal, local, regional ingredients. I think at times of hardship, when we are watching the pennies, and feeling a little bit sorry for ourselves, we want comforting food. This inevitably harks back to our upbringing and local homely dishes that our mothers, or grandmothers made.

Heston’s Meat Fruit

The best example of a restaurant harking back to recipes of old is Dinner. You can always depend on Heston Blumenthal to be at the forefront, but what is so reassuring is that he thinks that it is indeed these recipes that are the ones to take us into the future. You only have to see the almost iconic status that his Meat Fruit recipe has achieved to think there must be something in all of this.

I was specifically looking at the North East region for my latest project and it is interesting that the more isolated parts of the British Isles are those that have the really big signature recipes. Cornish Pasties….Lancashire hotpot….Yorkshire pudding….they all have a history in their roots and a place in our hearts.

Inevitably it is the baking elements that are the most embedded in our psyche and I guess that is because of the romantic notion of Mum baking at home and the sensory memory that evokes. It’s why I am not surprised at the success of the Great British Bake Off and all those classic dishes they make. In the North East they have the stottie and that will definitely be featuring in my new project.

This week I also went to the Real Bread Festival at the Southbank. Those Real Food people have extended the now permanent Real Food Market under the Royal Festival Hall awnings to include other specialist markets on the calendar including bread, chocolate, tea & coffee and cheese & wine. Sadly there wasn’t the range of bread specialists that I was expecting, rather a tiny handful of passionate bakers selling their wares. It all felt a little sad and left me wondering how these people really make a living.

So let’s resurrect the Mrs Beeton in us and go back to those home baking recipes that conjure up memories of old. Instead of croissants and brownies, how about scones and eccles cakes? The cupcake is evolving into the fairy cake for some bakers so there must be hope for us all.

Back in April I told you I bought Mr B. a cherry tree for Christmas and after the blossom party, we were looking forward to the fruits this Summer. It seemed like a great idea that we could support a Kent farm, take the family to pick the cherries and make a day of it as well as have a bucket load of juicy British fruit not only to feed us now, but also to make some wonderful Christmas presents by preserving, juicing or simply adding alcohol. But it seems that the weather has not been on our side.

Last year, my friends extolled the virtue of this wonderful present and were overwhelmed with their abundance of cherries but sadly this year, the story is going to be very different. First it was the unseasonably warm early year which meant that fruiting plants thought the Spring season had started in Feb, then it was the unusual frosts in April which seem to have really nipped things in the bud, literally. And more recently it is that notorious jet stream which has carried so much rain that the fruits, even if they do come, are soggy and splitting. So we are advised that it is going to be a paltry offering this weekend when we go  a picking and I will have to get my thinking cap on for Christmas again.

Marking out a new racetrack?

I am sure you are feeling like me that the rain has just taken its toll in many ways this year. In the last fortnight, work took me to the wonderful Silverstone over the Grand Prix which really was a challenge as you all know. I thought it would be a good call to film our promotional video on Saturday qualifiers but how wrong was I?? it was genuine madness getting round in the torrential rain and gloopy mud. Even getting on site seemed like a season of Challenge Anneka.

This weekend we were due to be at the CLA Game Fair catering for the 18,000 members who were due to partake in fun games throughout the weekend at the lovely Belvoir Castle. Sadly this was called off a week ago as we were in the midst of preparing our lorries to get over there for the set up. The fields and lawns simply could not safely facilitate the event. What a shame.

It seems like the CLA cancellation is not the only event to fall foul this year. Many July food, agricultural and music events which have previously caught the imagination have also been called off this Summer including the Great Yorkshire Show in my home town, Taste of Edinburgh, Jimmy Doherty’s Harvest Festival, Innocent’s Village Fete and also The Big Chill. Some are saying it is the Olympic effect as this Summer the focus will be one of sport but the weather has clearly played its part in the decision making as well. This is awful news for the industry and I truly hope that the longer term implications are not too drastic.

Ironically I am writing this bathed in sunshine flooding through my windows today, but it is too late for this year. What have you been missing because of the weather?

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