Archives for category: Food

I know it’s just a stunt but today’s publicity surrounding the world’s most expensive ready meal is fascinating to me.

Swish-pie-bigham

The ‘Swish Pie‘ is said to be the ultimate fish pie made with turbot, scallops, oysters, smoked salmon and lobster all poached in a Champagne sauce. This is then topped with white truffle and mashed potato plus a gold leaf crumb, and served with spoons of caviar.

These stories used to be set around a specific product or restaurant dish but it says a lot that today it is about a ready meal. When did we get to a place that believes we would spend £314.16 on a ready meal? Still, Charlie Bigham’s have well and truly placed themselves at the luxury end of the market with this one and I think that’s a clever place to be at this moment in time.

Charlie Bigham

What really fascinated me was the elements that they saw fit to improve on in order to justify the price tag. They reflect the key components for anyone working in the food world:

1. Well sourced ingredients

Every single ingredient has a great story, whether it’s the hand dived scallops, the Cornish lobster, the Yukon Gold heritage potatoes, the Dom Perignon 2003 Champagne or the Alba truffle, each and every element has been carefully sourced as the best in its class by chef Bigham.

2. Approachable originality

Really great food has to at least feel original, but sometimes that can be taken too far. So having what I call approachable originality is an important dimension. Here the mother of pearl spoons of Beluga caviar as an amuse-bouche presumably to be consumed whilst the pie is heated (hopefully not microwaved!) is a nice touch. I am sure it helps to raise the value just over the previous claimant of this most-expensive-ready-meal accolade

3. Presentation

They say we eat with our eyes and there is surely a lot to be said about how we present any food product or experience to the customer. The website says that the pie is presented in a gold leaf tray although it looks pretty much like the original panibois tray which maybe has some gold somewhere on it and why oh why didn’t they adapt the cardboard sleeve?

3. Service

Each of these dishes are said to be delivered in a bespoke aluminium case, handcuffed to a security guard. Let’s hope that the guard knows to keep the case held flat or else there really could be trouble…and does he turn the oven on? I am not quite sure how all this delivery is arranged. I guess it is order only and not to be picked up from the multideck fridge at Sainsburys. Shame – I had this vision of plucking said gold tray from the shelf next to the chicken curry and then being pounced upon by some handsome devil who was going to deliver it personally to my home and cook it for me.

Anyway, the point is that service is an integral element to the enjoyment these days and that has to be something that is relevant to the food that is offered. I am not convinced the Swish Pie service has been as clearly thought through as perhaps it could have, but I guess the point is illustrated.

5. Taste

Finally, after all that pomp and circumstance it simply has to taste good. This I can’t comment on since I am definitely not about to spend £314.16 on a ready meal. It is marketing madness. And really someone needs to figure out their pricing policy. I know Charlie boy says it is in reference to Pi but that’s just tenuous. Surely you would round it to £315, wouldn’t you?

Does all this make it, as the charming Mr Bigham hopes, the most exceptional ready meal out there? Somehow I am not convinced, but you have to admire the aspiration. Maybe I’ll go and buy his lasagne and see how that stacks up.

Happy Thanksgivukkah!

Thanksgivukkah

This once-in-our-lifetime celebration was last experienced in 1888 and doesn’t promise to be repeated for another 79,000 years. So make the most of it.

I am talking about the happy coincidence of Thanksgiving falling on the same day as the start of Hanukkah this year, which has totally captured the imagination of Americans. It is simply a result of the Gregorian and Jewish calendars lasting different annual lengths but hey – any reason to celebrate eh?

The marketing mafia have gone into overdrive with tokens, tshirts and a whole host of social media embracing lots of ideas. Twitter hashtags have been created; facebook pages liked by over 14,000 people and there’s a plethora of music videos, anthems and films on You Tube. One savvy marketeer even trademarked the name and cleverly made the most of this one off festival.

I find it interesting that the most common way to relate to this rare occasion is through food. Once again it is the easiest way to create a connection.

Combining Jewish culture and tradition, with those of the Thanksgiving festival has encouraged new food mash-ups and recipes such as the sweet potato latke, apple latke bites, brussel sprouts with pastrami and pickled red onion, Thanksgiving babka, pecan pie rugelach, challah apple stuffing and sweet potato noodle kugel.

TG recipes

So what did you make?

Kenwood, those creators of wonderful kitchen equipment, have published a Food Bucket List: the top 50 do-before-you-die food experiences.

In order to create this list, they pulled together a panel of 6 people I guess they respect in the food world:

– Simon Rimmer

– William Sitwell

– Giles Coren

– Richard Bertinet

– Miranda Gore Browne

– Danny Kingston

The success of output always depends on the quality of input and this certainly would not be my collection of people to comment on such things, which is why I am somewhat bemused by this confused list, leaving me wanting to pop my clogs rather than embracing most of the suggestions.

Some were rather predictable, if a little dull, such as taking tea at Betty’s tea rooms in Harrogate, blackberry picking or cooking a perfectly timed Sunday roast. And then there was this strange list of make your owns: home-cured fish, homemade mayo, bake your own bread, make your own ice cream, marmalade and soup!…need I go on?

Others I would on the whole probably agree with: breakfast at The Wolseley, freshly baked croissants in a Parisian cafe, tapas in Madrid (my preference would be Barcelona), street food in Asia, sushi at Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo etc.

Stuck in the middle is this weird set of UK restaurants they have as places to eat: Racine, set lunch at Le Gavroche (if I was about to die I would rather do dinner a la carte!), The Seahorse, The Walnut Tree and L’Enclume… plus a random few places around the world, some of which are not to be disagreed with, but truly a very random list if they are meant to be the ultimate….. Chez Panisse (yes), hotdogs at a baseball game (really?!), Carnegie deli in NYC, Guinness at the Stag’s Head in Dublin and visiting the Jemaa al Fna in Marrakech.

Wales trip 018

I would endorse experiencing some of those quintessentially British foods which are iconic to us and our environment. Authentic fish & chips out of the newspaper really can’t be matched and most visitors to this country ask me where they can get that. Or shellfish by the UK coastline for that matter, and a great British picnic (in the Yorkshire Dales, with pork pie and scotch egg of course). Plus a Cornish afternoon tea with fluffy scones, homemade jam and a dollop of clotted cream really is something that every Brit should partake in at one time or another.

As ever, it is the experience shared rather than the absolute that ensures something achieves a higher impact and deserves food bucket list status. Think a celebratory meal at a world class restaurant, a perfect Winter Sunday lunch at a country pub or simply a naughty breakfast in bed with that perfect someone, never mind the crumbs.

Touring around Blue Hill at Stone Barns Farm before a superb dinner

Touring around Blue Hill at Stone Barns Farm before a superb dinner

Theodore Kyriakou demonstrates authentic Greek cooking on board the Tussock cruise

Theodore Kyriakou demonstrates authentic Greek cooking on board the Tussock cruise

Afternoon tea Marrakech style

Afternoon tea Marrakech style

I have been lucky enough to have had some of the most incredible food experiences but I can honestly say that the best food memories were captured because of the people I shared it with as much as the food we ate: Blue Hill at Stone Barns, fresh Maine lobster in Rockport, Theodore’s cooking on the Tussock cruise, tea & cake on a Marrakech rooftop, lunch in Ragusa, taking my nephew to the Fat Duck, Jose Andres at the SLS hotel, El Bulli (thank you Jane) and my favourite food memories of all….family meals at Los Duendes, Spain (now closed).

Stunning Chaucer Barn  in Norfolk - home for my birthday weekend with great friends

Stunning Chaucer Barn in Norfolk – home for my birthday weekend with great friends

For me special mention has to go to my birthday weekend dinner in Chaucer Barn, Norfolk;  many home cooked meals chez Wildish (especially that weekend in Citrusdal cooking by candlelight); making cheese in the dairy with M, lunch with the M&M boys and of course Mr.B’s chocolate fondant.

Dragon's breath popcorn created by the clever Snr Jose Andres

Dragon’s breath popcorn created by the clever Snr Jose Andres

I had a lovely day today with my beautiful youngest nephew Asher who asked if he could come over and cook with me for his birthday present. Well, that felt like more of a present for me than him, but who was I to argue?

garlic press

I love the fact that this seemed such a treat for him and started the day with suitable cookery presents: a cook book, a recipe file and a garlic press. Well, OK, the Joseph Joseph garlic press may not be the most conventional present for a 12 year old, but he says he likes it so I’m going with it.

Glossy chocolate pavlova on its way to the oven

Glossy chocolate pavlova on its way to the oven

We took some time to decide what to cook, but plumped for my favourite chicory recipe (see Chicory Chick) for lunch and then flicked through my file of torn out recipes to see what took our fancy. Meringues were definitely on the cards and all we had to decide was what flavour. It seems chocolate or coffee were the flavours of choice so Green & Blacks mocha dark chocolate was perfect.  Then we went off piste with ricotta and spinach scotch eggs.  A weird combo, I know, but we enjoyed ourselves.

Spinach and ricotta scotch eggs

Spinach and ricotta scotch eggs

A trip to Waitrose was so much more fun together with Ash wheeling the trolley and packing the bags. It made me realise how routine the supermarket trip is for me and how much it can be improved when you open yourself up to really shop it, with seasonality and newness to inspire.

When we got back, it was a fun filled afternoon of cooking, washing up, chatting, eating and generally connecting with this special young man. And I guess that’s what food does  – it connects us. Most great chefs talk fondly of early memories cooking with their mother or grandmother. That is a loving special place to start their passion for this great art.

A shared meal is also an intimate and wonderful thing. Those romantic dinners for two are a beautiful thing, and so is a Sunday lunch shared with friends or just a small present of a freshly baked treat taken as a token gesture to cheer or restore someone. Every culture has a food that restores and rebuilds. In my Jewish faith there is nothing better than chicken soup and that alone brings warmth to my heart.

The best birthday weekend sharing food with friends in Norfolk

The best birthday weekend sharing great food and good wine with friends in Norfolk

We also understand the benefit of sitting round a table and sharing a meal together. My wonderful friends in Cape Town have this great routine with their nephew and nieces when they share dinner at the end of the day. Everyone has to tell the group the best thing of the day, the worst thing of the day and the funniest thing of the day. It is simple, insightful and open. The smallest thing is the most telling thing and in this naive game comes a chance to deal with the issues of the day and support each other in the challenges.

I guess this ability to connect is what I most appreciate and embrace with my love of food.

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