Archives for category: Restaurants

It’s taken me the best part of this week to recover from our intense NYC tour and also to wade through all the photos we took.

There is no doubt that many UK cities, and in particular London, offer great inspiration but since we found ourselves in New York it seemed churlish not to make the most of it. So after the usual suspects and Brooklyn, we set off to mop up the remaining places. This city delivers people doing one thing well, whether it’s coffee, ice lollies, meatballs, dougnuts…..you name it they do it. As ever, my friends from Echochamber and also the lovely Lauren & Ben gave me the best tips making it easier to cherry pick the places to catch up on.

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Lauren & Ben epitomise the passionate New Yorker. They seem to be friends and connected with so many of the new food & drink people and know so much about where to go and what to consume. Every recommendation is spot on. They told me about Daniel Delaney last time and we popped into Briskettown when we were in Brooklyn.

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This time they told us about Mighty Quinn’s BBQ, which is similar to Pitt Cue Co. but keeps it more open with the kitchen butchery on show and stacks of wood to fuel the fire and produce great dishes such as the spare ribs and especially burnt ends. Signature bottled BBQ sauce is a must these days along with the t-shirt and baseball cap. Also essential is smoking the meat and slow cooking those delicious hard working cuts that are just the best when cooked like this.

Butchery at Mighty Quinn's

Butchery at Mighty Quinn’s

The obligatory signature sauce

The obligatory signature sauce

We also discovered Chobani which has become a bit of a phenomenon in the USA. This company was started by a Turkish immigrant, Hamdi Ulukaya, in 2005 and in the past 7 years has grown into a $1billion business. He keeps it simple, making authentic, natural strained or ‘greek’ yogurt with real fruit flavours and this formula has made it into the most popular yogurt brand in the US. It is coming over to the UK with some Tesco and Morrisons stores now stocking it.

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Frankly it is not the pot of yogurt that impressed me – rather their Soho shop. Set on the corner of Prince and W Broadway, this yogurt bar is so well done with a clever service counter, lovely finish to the outside and most especially a wonderful way of serving take away yogurt with glass dishes and a simple muslin lid held on with a red elastic band. Oh – and the yogurt wasn’t bad either!

inside Chobani

inside Chobani

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The other place that is less well known but continues to deliver is Sullivan Street Bakery in deepest darkest Hells Kitchen, making wonderful authentic Italian bread and pizza bianca.

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Founder/owner Jim Lahey keeps it real with an open kitchen, simple decor and edited range of breads that showcase his now well known techniques. I particularly liked these wooden ladders for the pizza which clearly allow the base to breathe and remain crisp crisp crisp.

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Finally, no trip to New York would be complete without a connection with the Cronut. I say a connection because it is still almost impossible to get one, but nevertheless, I whizzed off to Dominique Ansel’s Soho patisserie on Sunday morning to witness the craze. True to form, the Cronut queue is still going strong with a security guard manning the entrance and the order. When someone asked him why people were queueing for a pastry he simply said ….they need to get a life! Well, life or not, we went in to witness the process and actually had a really lovely not-cronut pastry, the DKA. It may not have made the media hype but we loved it and judging by the people around us who had managed to bag a cronut, it was markedly more manageable than the slightly sweet sticky signature. In fact, one couple sitting next to us said it wasn’t as good as the copy they had eaten the previous week!

The cronut factory continues with avengeance at the back of the bakery

The cronut factory continues with avengeance at the back of the bakery

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After much publicity and anticipation Shake Shack finally opened at their new Covent Garden location yesterday – their first in the UK.

Shake Shack has become a key part of the US tourist scene with city guides citing outlets as a destination tourist spot alongside icons such as the Statue of Liberty and Grand Central Station. That’s quite something for a burger joint, especially given the many burger choices you get in the USA. I discovered it a couple of years ago when I went to their Madison Square Park location and have been following it ever since. So what is the magic formula?

Shake Shack at Madison Square Park, New York

Shake Shack at Madison Square Park, New York

I love the story that in 2004 founder Danny Meyer and CEO Randy Garutti literally drew their concept on the back of a napkin and they refer to that napkin to this day to make sure they stick to the plan. Their aim was ‘to create the best burger company in the world, for the world and for their team’. Quite an aspiration. They call their approach the “anti-chain” chain. So despite their expansion, they approach each outlet individually making decisions as if it is their one and only restaurant. And they are controlled in that expansion having kept it to around 4 a year until this year when that is likely to double.

Danny Meyer and Randy Garutti in Covent Garden this week

Danny Meyer and Randy Garutti in Covent Garden this week

It is so reassuring to me that their aim balances ethical practices as well as a need to really acknowledge their team. As a result, they seem to be welcoming some interesting people to work with them on it. Their staff retention is crazy high, especially as it is a fast food concept and they are proud to count some fine dining experts as a core part of their team. This is all because of their approach not only to recruitment but also to training and development… plus, their Shack Dollars policy. This ensures that 1% of all monthly revenue is given back as a bonus to staff at that unit which is an immediate and focused incentive for everyone to drive sales.

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London is not their only foray outside of the US. They first went to the Middle East and then onto Istanbul. And in each place they embrace the local supply chain and product choice. Here in the UK they opted for Aberdeen Angus beef and count other British classics such as Cumberland sausages and Wiltshire cured smoked bacon as key ingredients to their UK menu. In addition they have partnered with London favourites St John Bakery to complement their signature frozen custards and concretes for a fabulous array of sweet treats that can be customised daily.

Shake Shack London (Preview) - Brought your dog?

And if all that’s not enough, they even have a couple of choices for your friendly canine too. They really have thought of everything.

Shake Shack can be found in Covent Garden and this interview gives you a bit more from CEO Randy Garutti.

It’s the little things in life that give me the most pleasure: a smile, a thoughtful touch, a flower in bloom in my garden.

A poppy from my garden

A poppy from my garden

In the restaurant world the equivalent comes under the service banner and in recent weeks there were some touches that really made me stop and think about that. It’s so easy to ruin a great experience and equally easy to make it the best if you have the right attitude to it. As I am working on a new restaurant at the moment it fascinates me to ponder how do you offer the latter each and every time and how do you both recruit and train people to just get it?

A couple of weeks ago I took Dad to a little gastropub I had read about near work: The Plough Inn at Longparish. Chef James Durrant won the prestigious Gastropub Chef of the Year award at this years Top 50 Gastropub Awards and so I fancied trying it, but it was most definitely the service which sealed the deal for me.

We were up against it for time and this did not phase the staff. When my plate of food was going to be ever so slightly late, they deposited a freebie crab salad centre table to make up for it, even though we had barely put our forks in that dish when my ordered plate arrived. But the thing that truly charmed me arrived when the bill came. Yes, there was a lovely plate of home-made fudge, but in addition, to celebrate Father’s Day, they brought a bottle of Tiger beer with a lovely tag just for Dad. How clever. It was so simple and yet so right. It sealed the deal for me and I will most definitely be back.

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Those chefs who have had the experience of time and understand their customers find their own way of exceeding expectations. At Koffmanns the bread comes complete with a little treat to add to the table. Last time I went it was a pissaladiere, but I suspect it is always something that makes the most of what is in the kitchen. And clever Jamie Oliver is never one to miss a customer facing opportunity so he ensures that even whilst queueing for his no-bookings Jamie’s Italian, the line is served with antipasti treats to keep the atmosphere positive. Jamie may be a chef but he is also a great marketer and always one of the people. He gets it so right.

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It is generally the sweets with coffee that are the added extras on a menu. At Restaurant Story they followed the latest trend to serve a mini Tunnock’s teacake, which I am told is also the petit four of choice at Bubbledogs Kitchen Table, Upstairs at the Ten Bells and also the Clove Club. But for the greatest of all, you have to go back to the iconic El Bulli. After our 23 course escapade we could hardly do it justice, but the last menu entry written simply as ‘Chocolate’ was a piece de resistance.

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I love Simon Hopkinson.

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He is a chef’s chef. Those who knew him in the heady days of Bibendum still sing his praises as a chef, but sadly he didn’t enjoy cooking in that environment. The restaurant’s loss was the cookery book’s gain and in “Roast Chicken and Other Stories”, Hopkinson created a recipe book that is an icon. It should be on every kitchen bookshelf.

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Despite being published in 1994, it is still going strong decades later and was voted the most useful cookbook of all time by Waitrose Food Illustrated in 2005. It’s quite something in the food world to beat the likes of Delia, Rick, Nigel & Hugh but to outsell Harry Potter….well that really says it all.

He is now back on TV with a new series: Simon Hopkinson Cooks. Even the programme title is typically understated. This man definitely knows how to cook and in a way that is easy for amateurs like me. He keeps it very simple, his instruction is well communicated and the food itself is yummy.

I was struck by the Gnudi recipe. I am linking it here just in case you decide to google it like I did and get the link to Come Dine With Me : Nude Dining. OK – I missed out the ‘g’, but that’s no reason to take me there!

I am going to get some lovely buffalo ricotta from M, the dairy manager at Laverstoke and get cooking.

And now I have series linked Mr H. and can’t wait for next week. Bring on Classic Lunch.

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