Past friends, present places, future talent

June 16, 2012 //

I recently hooked back up with an old friend of mine. That’s not to say that either of us are old per se (!) but that we were friends at school and as ever lost touch when our lives took different paths, but thankfully now those paths have merged together and it is lovely to be sharing experiences again.

When we first caught up, my friend told me that her youngest daughter got to the finals of Junior Masterchef and when I went online I was able to catch up on the wonderful exploits of Amber. This girl is special. There is no doubt about that. Her drive and determination to be a successful cake shop owner will undoubtedly come true and I am sure there will be lots of other success to follow her.

Once I met her (and tasted her incredible carrot cake) I really wanted to help out in whatever way I could and as I am more experienced in the food field, I suggested showing her around some of the places in London that I admire and today was the day we were to do that.

Melrose and Morgan, Hampstead

I obviously started at the wonderful Melrose and Morgan, showing her the original Primrose Hill shop and then the newer Hampstead one. Ian was working hard as ever and later on we caught up with Nick who was full of good advice for a budding new baker. Whilst in the NW area, we also popped into Maison Blanc, Ginger & White, Gails and Primrose Bakery.

Then we made a detour from the cake route to experience Chin Chin Laboratorists ice cream in Camden.

The Laboratory that is Chin Chin

I took Amber there to try and show an original idea as that is what she is capable of bringing to the already cluttered cake market. If someone said they wanted to create a retail environment that looked like a lab and displayed food in flasks and test-tubes, then they would probably be treated as ever so slightly mad, but this is exactly what works at Chin Chin.

Laboratory toppings

Vanilla ice cream with salted caramel sauce – my fave!

We chose a simple but favourite combo of mine, but I have to make special mention of the other flavour I tried which is this week’s special: cigar smoked caramel. Clearly this is not one for the kids, but as they say… “salted caramel, yawn! We smoke milk with Cuban cigars and then turn this into a rich, peppery, smokey caramel that’s strictly an adult’s only indulgence!” and indulge you should. It is genius.

Hopefully Amber was suitably inspired to think differently and so it was time for that classic outlet, Ottolenghi. Clearly the gods were looking down on us as the sun broke through the clouds and a parking space appeared right opposite and so it was we entered Yotam’s holy grail.

Salads the Yotam way

Now I know we were on a cake tour, but even this irresponsible temporary Mum couldn’t just purchase cake all day and what better alternative to offer than Ottolenghi salads. These give new meaning to the definition and whilst many have tried, the original really cannot be bettered. We both selected our favourites for a takeaway box to avoid the queues and realised that these offer much better value than the plated version anyway. It sufficed for my lunch and dinner and leftovers after that!

Cakes galore

Then we had the impossible choice of which cake to take with us. Everything was as fabulous as ever.

So replenished and inspired, we got the tube to our final destination for the day: Borough Market. I really couldn’t leave that out even though Saturday is not my ideal day to visit. Amber took to it like a pro, purchasing some choice goodies for the whole family to indulge in and really embraced the market experience.

Borough in all its glory

We watched raclette being scraped over potatoes, pufferfish guarding the fish counter, wonderful arrays of Summer berries and of course piles of chocolate brownies. We sampled salty fudge, smelly cheese, spicy sausage and lots more.

So tired, stuffed and happy we trudged back home to Mum to share our day and our purchases. And the highlight for Amber? well that would be the Fleur de Sel fudge and the innovative Chin Chin Labs.

Amber is a girl after my own heart. She will, I am sure, create something unique and wonderful to bring to the cake world when she is old enough to do it and until then, I am looking forward to sharing some inspiration and discovering new places with her in the very near future.

Tags Borough Market, Chin Chin Laboratorists, Junior Masterchef, Melrose and Morgan, Ottolenghi

Categories Food, Retail

Recipe for retail success

June 16, 2012 //

I have a fun day planned, more of which later, but in the meantime just a short note to acknowledge something I have been banging on about for a while. If you agree and know any others, please let me know.

Here comes the book…

Today I read about the People’s Pops recipe book. For those of you who have not been fortunate enough to experience this New York phenomenon, People’s Pops are an ice lolly shop in Chelsea Market and now across other NYC locations. This was one of the great discoveries I made on my last trip as the concept ticked so many of the boxes that I feel is driving innovative food retail at the moment. However, these guys were for a time missing one important ingredient in my recipe for success….the book!

Ingredients, flavours and quirky sticks: simples

You see, my theory goes like this. New concepts have to start out small and at low cost, hence the pop up or street food culture. It is about a van or a counter or something very manageable and low maintenance. The menu has to be tight, focusing on one product or one thing done exceptionally well, in this case ice lollies. And in doing that well there is generally a sense of humour, some innovative flavours and great sourcing. After that it is all about the branding and marketing which require quirky elements (ice lolly sticks), great social media, word of mouth and a young vibrant team who can represent the brand dynamically to the customer. Obviously the final element is merchandising with the cap, the t shirt, the serving dish… and of course the book.

Don’t believe me? Well here are a few more examples to prove the point.

The Meatball Shop promote their book with the receipt

Meatballs, fun tick list menu, nod to the tradition of mincing beef with mincer elements on the wall and….. the book!

Doughnuts galore…and good ones at that

Doughnuts, fun doughnut shaped cushions and chairs, trendy flavours, pared back branding. I haven’t seen the book yet, so watch this space. They are definitely missing a trick.

And one from our own shores: Pitt Cue Co.

Pitt Cue simple daily menu

It started in an airstream truck under Hungerford Bridge and just took off from there. Now in Newburgh St, Soho, these guys combine great smokey, well sourced slow cooked meat cuts with tasty sides. Don’t forget Hair of the Pig before you sit down to get you in the spicy mood and save room for dessert. Once again, the book and the merchandising is not yet there, but it will be. Mark my words!

Any from you?….

Tags branding, Doughnut Plant, meatball shop, People's pops, Pitt Cue co., recipe book

Categories Food, Restaurants, Retail

Chicken licken

June 10, 2012 //

Sunday roast chicken from Brawn

It seems to me that chicken is back in fashion. For far too long it was anything but the humble old chuck with steakhouses, hotdogs, fish campaigns et al taking precedence but thankfully things are coming back full circle.

I am not sure if it is the latest press about red and processed meats that has made us revisit the priorities, but I for one am thankful. I honestly think my last meal would be a classic roasted chicken of good origin and simply done. Maybe it is all those memories of Friday night dinner at my Mum’s, but roast chicken and then chicken soup made from the bones are like medicine to me. I roast my chicken simply with lemon juice and soy sauce (!) which makes a wonderful gravy at the end, as long as you don’t let it catch. And don’t forget the roast onions in the base which caramelise wonderfully in this rich umami liquor.

I remember the day that we decided at M&S to advertise roast chicken and give away a bird to anyone spending over £35 on their basket. This was an operation like no other, simply trying to decide how many chickens that would be needed and how we would get them to the right store on time to meet the demand from the TV ad. Even in the face of chocolate puddings, Christmas treats and lots of other enticing dishes, the roast chicken was right up there in the most popular products we ever gave away and I for one am not surprised. Chicken remains in 2 of the top 5 M&S sandwiches, as well as 4 of the top 5 selling salads.

However, it was only when I saw Daniel Clifford’s chicken dish win the main course of Great British Menu this week that I realised the return of the chicken was truly here to stay. He certainly earned his chef credentials in turning this magnificent dish out for the Olympic meal. If you want to re-create this centrepiece, it is a mere 53 stage process to follow the recipe on the BBC website. I for one vote to leave that to the expert.

Slow poached chicken, sweetcorn egg, spinach with bacon & peas from the wonderful Daniel Clifford

The other interesting thing is the prevalence of named varieties of chicken with everyone finding their own preference. At M&S we bred the Oakham chicken which was slow growing and deemed by the majority of customers to be tastier than the average bird. Then, in the restaurants, they too have a their own choice of bird. At Brawn, they serve a Landaise chicken in the centre of the table, although it was a little disconcerting to find they removed one leg because we were a table of three! At the new Mark Hix restaurant, Tramshed, they do the same with a Woolley Park Farm bird complete with feet in tact. In fact, it is either that or steak, so the epitome of limited choice. Good old Mr Hix – he is always so spot on with these things. And now I read that Nick Jones of Soho House and Pizza East fame is opening a new Chicken Shop below the next Pizza East concept opening this August in Kentish Town. Serving only specially marinated rotisserie chicken, this will be a destination for me.

Spit & Roast: simple and tasty (the chicken, not these guys!)

If waiting til August is too much to contemplate, then try Spit & Roast found in Hackney, or through the Eat Street clan. These guys source free range Suffolk birds for their recipes and specialise in buttermilk fried chicken as well as fabby buffalo wings. I am definitely encouraging the teams who work with me to book these guys. And if anyone is required for sampling, they know where to come.

Tags Brawn, chicken, Chicken shop, Great British Menu, return of the chicken, Spit & Roast, Tramshed

Categories Food

Crazy creations at Selfridges

June 1, 2012 //

Selfridges bring the weekend to life

Those clever boys at Bompas and Parr have done it again.

I first encountered their creations two years ago at The Complete History of Food which was a full sensory experience and really put their talents on the map. Since then, they have collaborated on many projects first working in the mass retail environment in October 2010 with their Artisanal Chewing Gum Factory at Whiteleys shopping centre, following with the Chocolate Waterfall 6 months later.

Last year, they started working with Selfridges on their rooftop, which had previously been home of the Pierre Koffman pop up. The set up there is perfect to create an event with one lift servicing the roof and a team who are experienced at coming up with innovative designs as demonstrated by their window displays. Just look at this latest Jubilee example….

Another tongue in cheek window to support the Jubilee

So it makes sense for these two to join forces and luckily for us, it seems that the plan is to do more and more.

This weekend we are invited to celebrate on the roof with a pop up restaurant from Daylesford along with a crazy golf experience from those B&P boys. It really is clever. Simple iconic London buildings recreated at the centre of each hole and views over the very same London city from up there on that roof.

Go see, go play, go partake in yummy tea.

Happy Jubilee everyone.