Archives for posts with tag: Dach & Sons

We are definitely spoilt for choice in London for new restaurants. A new opening is a weekly occurrence. Sadly there are many more failures than successes and my list of potential places to visit gets edited down somewhat frequently. It used to be that I would bound along with fresh enthusiasm but years of disappointment makes me far more cynical these days.

Last year it was Dabbous that caught my eye but I got bored trying to get a table so it is still on the list, but could be there for some time. The reviews can’t all be wrong, so I will get there at some point. Mind you, I also fancied Dach & Sons – a hotdog and cocktails place that opened less than a year ago near me. When I finally found a suitably young & hip companion to take there, it had shut! They put it down to failure to generate the right volume of trade…a sad reality of starting up in this highly competitive city.

This year, I had two front runners on my ever expanding list: Ametsa and Restaurant Story.

Ametsa restaurant

Ametsa appealed because I also have San Sebastian, and of course Arzak, well up on my travel list (I know – all these lists!). So when the mountain and chef mohammed were coming to London it seemed too good to be true. I researched and chased and hung on in the phone queue as is normally required in these circumstances, and secured a table soon after opening. Experience tells me never to go week one as it is generally being bedded in and you can also catch up on the restaurant critics and reviewers before you go. In Ametsa’s case, it kind of dived: pretentious name (Ametsa with Arzak Instruction); the room was over designed with no sense of warmth or reality and the set menu at £105 or £145 with wine just seemed extortionate when you consider what wonderfulness you can get in these frugal days for a quarter of that. My friends and I declined. So it’s on the list, but I would, as Marina O’Loughlin says, rather spend the money on going to San Sebastian.

Restaurant Story

Restaurant Story is at the other Dabbous-end of the new restaurant scale. Tom Sellers is one of those new chefs, like Ollie Dabbous, who has risen through the teachings of great chefs and restaurants. In Tom’s case, he worked with Tom Aikens and Adam Byatt here in the UK as well as at Noma and Per Se abroad. Not a bad resume for a boy from Nottingham who started out aged 16 as a pot wash in a pub. Now aged 26 he has opened his first stand alone restaurant in an old Bermondsey toilet block, near Tower Bridge. I followed chef Tom on Twitter and subscribed to his website to try and get in on the table bookings, knowing how these things go. Even though subscribers were allowed to ring a day in advance of the official opening for bookings, it still took me 4 hours to get through. Still, a table was booked and this weekend we embarked on the tale.

restaurant story

I fear that when a place has the kind of hype that this one does, it can only fail to deliver and the concept was already feeling a little over-worked culminating in their request for you to bring a book to the place. Thankfully all remnants of the toilet block are well and truly gone and the designers have taken the whole Story idea into all elements with leather bound banisters, a bespoke bookcase for said books and an old copy of a Dickens classic centre table when you arrive.  My fear of pretension was only accentuated when our rather over-keen waiter announced as we sat down: “welcome …I hope you are ready to have the best meal of your life”. Hmm. These guys needed a chill pill.

Thankfully the skill of a good chef can’t be put down and the meal was interesting and enjoyable. There have been reviews on a poor and overpriced wine list, but my Spanish friend Pilar found a lovely Galician white which was reasonable and the perfect accompaniment to the first six of our ten course taster. And the food was really well made. There were ingredients and flavours which I have never had which seemed to nod to the Noma influence and there were dishes that I really loved.

The signature beef dripping candle

The signature beef dripping candle

Right up there was the rye bread served with the now well documented beef dripping candle but more importantly with a beautiful sharp/sweet side of perfectly cut veal tongue chunks, with celery, spring onion and jellied cubes of chicken consomme which we demolished. We also loved the pre dinner snack of polenta coated rabbit croquettes with the most wonderful depth of tarragon.

crispy cod skin appetiser

crispy cod skin pre dinner amuse bouche

More pre dinner tasters: radish with seaweed butter and stuffed nasturtium flower

more pre dinner tasters: radish with seaweed butter and stuffed nasturtium flower

the lovely rabbit croquettes

the lovely rabbit croquettes

Burnt onions in gin, apple and thyme jus

burnt onions in gin, apple and thyme jus

Scallop ceviche with cucumber balls, some covered in dill ash

scallop ‘ceviche’ with cucumber balls, some covered in dill ash, horseradish cream and nasturtium leaves

Mackerel with mermaid's hair (seaweed) and slices of almost raw strawberry

mackerel with mermaid’s hair (seaweed) and slices of almost raw strawberry

Buttery buttery mash with asparagus, grass and coal emulsion

buttery buttery mash with asparagus, grass and coal emulsion

sweet rich beetroot and raspberry with a subtle horseradish snow

sweet rich beetroot and raspberry with a subtle horseradish snow

My least favourite lamb with wild garlic, salad leaves and sheep yogurt

my least favourite lamb with wild garlic, salad leaves and sheep yogurt

Finally the desserts. ‘Lemon’ really was a celebration of this wonderful citrus and an overwhelming favourite of the table. Tea infused prunes with lovage ice cream was interesting and the signature three bear’s porridge … well we loved the serving dishes, got confused because the too salty, too sweet and just right on the card didn’t match the order served but generally would have preferred something more classically desserty. I always feel cheated if there isn’t something with chocolate or caramel in my desserts.

our favourite 'lemon'

our favourite ‘lemon’

Earl Grey infused prunes with lovage ice cream and milk skin

Earl Grey infused prunes with lovage ice cream and milk skin

three bear's porridge: too salty, too sweet and just right (actually I preferred the too sweet, but hey ho)

three bear’s porridge: too salty, too sweet and just right (actually I preferred the too sweet, but hey ho)

Overall we enjoyed, savoured and at times kind of wondered about some things but we were all glad we went. There is no doubt that each plate, carefully chosen in its own right, was truly beautiful and really well made.

Was it memorable? It wasn’t in the league of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Koffmann’s, Pot Luck Club or Bazaar at the SLS, but it was a lovely evening and a restaurant that I am sure will grow and grow as it matures.

Last night, I went to a lovely get together with the Wildish crew and friends before Sue jets back to Cape Town. I am not sure if it is the South African way, but these guys are natural hosts and the promise of a sausage braai with cocktails was spot on for me. Even the weather seemed in awe of our fabulous evening as it managed to stay dry and relatively warm for the majority of the day.

Sausage braai – simples

There has been a lot of publicity around the latest sausage phenomenon which started a while ago but has been given a new lease of life. The humble bangers and mash has now been usurped by the latest trendy offering, and one sad casualty in this revolution is the S&M cafe which closed earlier this year after 12 years of trading.

So what comes in its place? I hear you ask. Well, this fashion is chomping at the heels of Mishkins and Pitt Cue. The first rule is simplicity, with one primary foodstuff, namely the sausage but since it also ticks the American diner trend, they are now hotdogs. Don’t think dodgy dogs of the stripey roadside trolley era, as these babies are gourmet, home made, prime ingredients dogs from the hands of skilled and renowned chefs. And just to prove their worth in the trend stakes, they are paired up with equally gourmet drinks.

First on the podium of fashionable places stands Bubbledogs. Created by husband and wife team James Knappett and Sandia Chang, these guys have an incredible pedigree having worked at The Ledbury, The Berkeley, Noma and Per Se amongst others. Starting their own concept, they have opted for a small menu of 10 well designed gourmet hotdog dishes, such as the BLT -bacon wrapped dogs with truffle mayo and caramelised lettuce. You get the idea. And if that wasn’t enough to tempt, the Bubble element is Champagne. Grower Champagne at that, alongside well chosen Sparkling wines. This is about simplicity, sourcing and style. And just to confirm the fashion stakes, it has a no booking policy and has arrived in Charlotte Street, London. Look them up and get on their tasted counter. Go to www.bubbledogs.co.uk

Incidentally, it is worth noting that Mr Knappett is also offering a diametrically opposed offer at the same address. His Kitchen Table concept is reservations only lunches and dinners served in the kitchen by James who talks through the 3 or 5 course meal he is serving you.

In addition, and just up the road from me, comes Dach and Sons. Hot dogs again, made in house. Once again, it is a small core menu with guest dogs appearing daily and this time, the pairing is with American whiskey….plus some obligatory craft beers. Sides include home made pickles and bone marrow popcorn (of course) and the cocktails focus on Juleps with home grown mint plucked from their roof terrace. Once again there is a no-booking policy but don’t worry. You can slip through the restaurant to the speakeasy up the staircase to while the time away.