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The Great British Summer?

July 21, 2012 //
2

Back in April I told you I bought Mr B. a cherry tree for Christmas and after the blossom party, we were looking forward to the fruits this Summer. It seemed like a great idea that we could support a Kent farm, take the family to pick the cherries and make a day of it as well as have a bucket load of juicy British fruit not only to feed us now, but also to make some wonderful Christmas presents by preserving, juicing or simply adding alcohol. But it seems that the weather has not been on our side.

Last year, my friends extolled the virtue of this wonderful present and were overwhelmed with their abundance of cherries but sadly this year, the story is going to be very different. First it was the unseasonably warm early year which meant that fruiting plants thought the Spring season had started in Feb, then it was the unusual frosts in April which seem to have really nipped things in the bud, literally. And more recently it is that notorious jet stream which has carried so much rain that the fruits, even if they do come, are soggy and splitting. So we are advised that it is going to be a paltry offering this weekend when we go  a picking and I will have to get my thinking cap on for Christmas again.

Marking out a new racetrack?

I am sure you are feeling like me that the rain has just taken its toll in many ways this year. In the last fortnight, work took me to the wonderful Silverstone over the Grand Prix which really was a challenge as you all know. I thought it would be a good call to film our promotional video on Saturday qualifiers but how wrong was I?? it was genuine madness getting round in the torrential rain and gloopy mud. Even getting on site seemed like a season of Challenge Anneka.

This weekend we were due to be at the CLA Game Fair catering for the 18,000 members who were due to partake in fun games throughout the weekend at the lovely Belvoir Castle. Sadly this was called off a week ago as we were in the midst of preparing our lorries to get over there for the set up. The fields and lawns simply could not safely facilitate the event. What a shame.

It seems like the CLA cancellation is not the only event to fall foul this year. Many July food, agricultural and music events which have previously caught the imagination have also been called off this Summer including the Great Yorkshire Show in my home town, Taste of Edinburgh, Jimmy Doherty’s Harvest Festival, Innocent’s Village Fete and also The Big Chill. Some are saying it is the Olympic effect as this Summer the focus will be one of sport but the weather has clearly played its part in the decision making as well. This is awful news for the industry and I truly hope that the longer term implications are not too drastic.

Ironically I am writing this bathed in sunshine flooding through my windows today, but it is too late for this year. What have you been missing because of the weather?

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Categories British, Food, Marketing

A dog’s dinner

July 15, 2012 //
1

Last night, I went to a lovely get together with the Wildish crew and friends before Sue jets back to Cape Town. I am not sure if it is the South African way, but these guys are natural hosts and the promise of a sausage braai with cocktails was spot on for me. Even the weather seemed in awe of our fabulous evening as it managed to stay dry and relatively warm for the majority of the day.

Sausage braai – simples

There has been a lot of publicity around the latest sausage phenomenon which started a while ago but has been given a new lease of life. The humble bangers and mash has now been usurped by the latest trendy offering, and one sad casualty in this revolution is the S&M cafe which closed earlier this year after 12 years of trading.

So what comes in its place? I hear you ask. Well, this fashion is chomping at the heels of Mishkins and Pitt Cue. The first rule is simplicity, with one primary foodstuff, namely the sausage but since it also ticks the American diner trend, they are now hotdogs. Don’t think dodgy dogs of the stripey roadside trolley era, as these babies are gourmet, home made, prime ingredients dogs from the hands of skilled and renowned chefs. And just to prove their worth in the trend stakes, they are paired up with equally gourmet drinks.

First on the podium of fashionable places stands Bubbledogs. Created by husband and wife team James Knappett and Sandia Chang, these guys have an incredible pedigree having worked at The Ledbury, The Berkeley, Noma and Per Se amongst others. Starting their own concept, they have opted for a small menu of 10 well designed gourmet hotdog dishes, such as the BLT -bacon wrapped dogs with truffle mayo and caramelised lettuce. You get the idea. And if that wasn’t enough to tempt, the Bubble element is Champagne. Grower Champagne at that, alongside well chosen Sparkling wines. This is about simplicity, sourcing and style. And just to confirm the fashion stakes, it has a no booking policy and has arrived in Charlotte Street, London. Look them up and get on their tasted counter. Go to www.bubbledogs.co.uk

Incidentally, it is worth noting that Mr Knappett is also offering a diametrically opposed offer at the same address. His Kitchen Table concept is reservations only lunches and dinners served in the kitchen by James who talks through the 3 or 5 course meal he is serving you.

In addition, and just up the road from me, comes Dach and Sons. Hot dogs again, made in house. Once again, it is a small core menu with guest dogs appearing daily and this time, the pairing is with American whiskey….plus some obligatory craft beers. Sides include home made pickles and bone marrow popcorn (of course) and the cocktails focus on Juleps with home grown mint plucked from their roof terrace. Once again there is a no-booking policy but don’t worry. You can slip through the restaurant to the speakeasy up the staircase to while the time away.

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Categories Food, Restaurants

Inspiration, dedication, creation

July 2, 2012 //
0

Taking in the rays

I managed to grab a few days away last week with the lovely Natasha. It was a great excuse to soak up some sunshine, take a dip in my choice of swimming pool and partake in a massage or two. But more importantly, it was a chance to get on top of the pile of books that have been accumulating by the side of my bed for many months now.

The inspirational Gabrielle Hamilton

The first read was Blood, Bones & Butter by Gabrielle Hamilton, chef owner of Prune restaurant in NYC. This book was a birthday present from my LA friend Bonnie and came with her passionate recommendation along with a back cover of food royalty extolling the virtues of Ms Hamilton as both a chef and a writer. They were all absolutely spot on…this is a book for everyone enthused about food to read. From the very first chapter you are hooked by the whole family party, spit roast lamb experience and it just made me want to get back home and dig a bbq pit directly there in my tiny garden. This book is remarkably honest and very well written and really makes you see just what madness and dedication it takes to run a successful restaurant. Go to Prune (go early for Sunday brunch) and eat her food. It is wonderful.

Ferran

I followed this tome with “Ferran: the inside story of El Bulli and the man who reinvented food”. OK – so you know who and what this book is about and whilst it is ever so sycophantic, it is a really good record of all things Ferran.

What is interesting about both these books is the way that these two untrained chefs became so respected and successful in their world. They both share some similar traits even if their approaches differ. The first is the influence of their childhood and upbringing. Don’t get me started on the whole psychological reasoning of this but take it from me that your childhood and early experiences really do shape these guys. This is about going back to the source of food from their upbringing whether it is a memory of family life (the lamb pit above) or the authentic cuisine of home. Both are loyal to the flavours of their youth.

Then, there is a dedication to the cause that is beyond most of our comprehension. It doesn’t really matter what drives it, but this industry requires a monumental dedication to the cause. It is almost at the expense of everything else. What fascinates me is how they both got to this place and what it is we need to do to influence the up and coming youth of today with this trait. Recently, Marcus Wareing was reported as lambasting young chefs who are “clueless and lazy” and predicting that if this attitude continues, there will be no future to the industry. He may very well be right.

Finally, there is a lovely quote in the Ferran book about creativity from Chef Jacques Maximin. He says: “Creativity means not copying” and this was an epiphany for Senor Adria. It is another lesson to be taught and encouraged from a young age. It is only now, in my old age, that I have the guts to have my own opinion and almost pride myself in approaching things from a different perspective. When I was younger I thought there was a right and a wrong but when it comes to art, there is just so much more.

Combine these three fundamentals and you have great chefs, and probably great artists, great musicians and so much more. So on that note – go create! bring something new to this world.

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Categories Food, Restaurants

Past friends, present places, future talent

June 16, 2012 //
4

I recently hooked back up with an old friend of mine. That’s not to say that either of us are old per se (!) but that we were friends at school and as ever lost touch when our lives took different paths, but thankfully now those paths have merged together and it is lovely to be sharing experiences again.

When we first caught up, my friend told me that her youngest daughter got to the finals of Junior Masterchef and when I went online I was able to catch up on the wonderful exploits of Amber. This girl is special. There is no doubt about that. Her drive and determination to be a successful cake shop owner will undoubtedly come true and I am sure there will be lots of other success to follow her.

Once I met her (and tasted her incredible carrot cake) I really wanted to help out in whatever way I could and as I am more experienced in the food field, I suggested showing her around some of the places in London that I admire and today was the day we were to do that.

Melrose and Morgan, Hampstead

I obviously started at the wonderful Melrose and Morgan, showing her the original Primrose Hill shop and then the newer Hampstead one. Ian was working hard as ever and later on we caught up with Nick who was full of good advice for a budding new baker. Whilst in the NW area, we also popped into Maison Blanc, Ginger & White, Gails and Primrose Bakery.

Then we made a detour from the cake route to experience Chin Chin Laboratorists ice cream in Camden.

The Laboratory that is Chin Chin

I took Amber there to try and show an original idea as that is what she is capable of bringing to the already cluttered cake market. If someone said they wanted to create a retail environment that looked like a lab and displayed food in flasks and test-tubes, then they would probably be treated as ever so slightly mad, but this is exactly what works at Chin Chin.

Laboratory toppings

Vanilla ice cream with salted caramel sauce – my fave!

We chose a simple but favourite combo of mine, but I have to make special mention of the other flavour I tried which is this week’s special: cigar smoked caramel. Clearly this is not one for the kids, but as they say… “salted caramel, yawn! We smoke milk with Cuban cigars and then turn this into a rich, peppery, smokey caramel that’s strictly an adult’s only indulgence!” and indulge you should. It is genius.

Hopefully Amber was suitably inspired to think differently and so it was time for that classic outlet, Ottolenghi. Clearly the gods were looking down on us as the sun broke through the clouds and a parking space appeared right opposite and so it was we entered Yotam’s holy grail.

Salads the Yotam way

Now I know we were on a cake tour, but even this irresponsible temporary Mum couldn’t just purchase cake all day and what better alternative to offer than Ottolenghi salads. These give new meaning to the definition and whilst many have tried, the original really cannot be bettered. We both selected our favourites for a takeaway box to avoid the queues and realised that these offer much better value than the plated version anyway. It sufficed for my lunch and dinner and leftovers after that!

Cakes galore

Then we had the impossible choice of which cake to take with us. Everything was as fabulous as ever.

So replenished and inspired, we got the tube to our final destination for the day: Borough Market. I really couldn’t leave that out even though Saturday is not my ideal day to visit. Amber took to it like a pro, purchasing some choice goodies for the whole family to indulge in and really embraced the market experience.

Borough in all its glory

We watched raclette being scraped over potatoes, pufferfish guarding the fish counter, wonderful arrays of Summer berries and of course piles of chocolate brownies. We sampled salty fudge, smelly cheese, spicy sausage and lots more.

So tired, stuffed and happy we trudged back home to Mum to share our day and our purchases. And the highlight for Amber? well that would be the Fleur de Sel fudge and the innovative Chin Chin Labs.

Amber is a girl after my own heart. She will, I am sure, create something unique and wonderful to bring to the cake world when she is old enough to do it and until then, I am looking forward to sharing some inspiration and discovering new places with her in the very near future.

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Categories Food, Retail
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