The Great British Summer?

July 21, 2012 //
2

Back in April I told you I bought Mr B. a cherry tree for Christmas and after the blossom party, we were looking forward to the fruits this Summer. It seemed like a great idea that we could support a Kent farm, take the family to pick the cherries and make a day of it as well as have a bucket load of juicy British fruit not only to feed us now, but also to make some wonderful Christmas presents by preserving, juicing or simply adding alcohol. But it seems that the weather has not been on our side.

Last year, my friends extolled the virtue of this wonderful present and were overwhelmed with their abundance of cherries but sadly this year, the story is going to be very different. First it was the unseasonably warm early year which meant that fruiting plants thought the Spring season had started in Feb, then it was the unusual frosts in April which seem to have really nipped things in the bud, literally. And more recently it is that notorious jet stream which has carried so much rain that the fruits, even if they do come, are soggy and splitting. So we are advised that it is going to be a paltry offering this weekend when we go  a picking and I will have to get my thinking cap on for Christmas again.

Marking out a new racetrack?

I am sure you are feeling like me that the rain has just taken its toll in many ways this year. In the last fortnight, work took me to the wonderful Silverstone over the Grand Prix which really was a challenge as you all know. I thought it would be a good call to film our promotional video on Saturday qualifiers but how wrong was I?? it was genuine madness getting round in the torrential rain and gloopy mud. Even getting on site seemed like a season of Challenge Anneka.

This weekend we were due to be at the CLA Game Fair catering for the 18,000 members who were due to partake in fun games throughout the weekend at the lovely Belvoir Castle. Sadly this was called off a week ago as we were in the midst of preparing our lorries to get over there for the set up. The fields and lawns simply could not safely facilitate the event. What a shame.

It seems like the CLA cancellation is not the only event to fall foul this year. Many July food, agricultural and music events which have previously caught the imagination have also been called off this Summer including the Great Yorkshire Show in my home town, Taste of Edinburgh, Jimmy Doherty’s Harvest Festival, Innocent’s Village Fete and also The Big Chill. Some are saying it is the Olympic effect as this Summer the focus will be one of sport but the weather has clearly played its part in the decision making as well. This is awful news for the industry and I truly hope that the longer term implications are not too drastic.

Ironically I am writing this bathed in sunshine flooding through my windows today, but it is too late for this year. What have you been missing because of the weather?

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Categories British, Food, Marketing

A dog’s dinner

July 15, 2012 //
1

Last night, I went to a lovely get together with the Wildish crew and friends before Sue jets back to Cape Town. I am not sure if it is the South African way, but these guys are natural hosts and the promise of a sausage braai with cocktails was spot on for me. Even the weather seemed in awe of our fabulous evening as it managed to stay dry and relatively warm for the majority of the day.

Sausage braai – simples

There has been a lot of publicity around the latest sausage phenomenon which started a while ago but has been given a new lease of life. The humble bangers and mash has now been usurped by the latest trendy offering, and one sad casualty in this revolution is the S&M cafe which closed earlier this year after 12 years of trading.

So what comes in its place? I hear you ask. Well, this fashion is chomping at the heels of Mishkins and Pitt Cue. The first rule is simplicity, with one primary foodstuff, namely the sausage but since it also ticks the American diner trend, they are now hotdogs. Don’t think dodgy dogs of the stripey roadside trolley era, as these babies are gourmet, home made, prime ingredients dogs from the hands of skilled and renowned chefs. And just to prove their worth in the trend stakes, they are paired up with equally gourmet drinks.

First on the podium of fashionable places stands Bubbledogs. Created by husband and wife team James Knappett and Sandia Chang, these guys have an incredible pedigree having worked at The Ledbury, The Berkeley, Noma and Per Se amongst others. Starting their own concept, they have opted for a small menu of 10 well designed gourmet hotdog dishes, such as the BLT -bacon wrapped dogs with truffle mayo and caramelised lettuce. You get the idea. And if that wasn’t enough to tempt, the Bubble element is Champagne. Grower Champagne at that, alongside well chosen Sparkling wines. This is about simplicity, sourcing and style. And just to confirm the fashion stakes, it has a no booking policy and has arrived in Charlotte Street, London. Look them up and get on their tasted counter. Go to www.bubbledogs.co.uk

Incidentally, it is worth noting that Mr Knappett is also offering a diametrically opposed offer at the same address. His Kitchen Table concept is reservations only lunches and dinners served in the kitchen by James who talks through the 3 or 5 course meal he is serving you.

In addition, and just up the road from me, comes Dach and Sons. Hot dogs again, made in house. Once again, it is a small core menu with guest dogs appearing daily and this time, the pairing is with American whiskey….plus some obligatory craft beers. Sides include home made pickles and bone marrow popcorn (of course) and the cocktails focus on Juleps with home grown mint plucked from their roof terrace. Once again there is a no-booking policy but don’t worry. You can slip through the restaurant to the speakeasy up the staircase to while the time away.

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Categories Food, Restaurants

Inspiration, dedication, creation

July 2, 2012 //
0

Taking in the rays

I managed to grab a few days away last week with the lovely Natasha. It was a great excuse to soak up some sunshine, take a dip in my choice of swimming pool and partake in a massage or two. But more importantly, it was a chance to get on top of the pile of books that have been accumulating by the side of my bed for many months now.

The inspirational Gabrielle Hamilton

The first read was Blood, Bones & Butter by Gabrielle Hamilton, chef owner of Prune restaurant in NYC. This book was a birthday present from my LA friend Bonnie and came with her passionate recommendation along with a back cover of food royalty extolling the virtues of Ms Hamilton as both a chef and a writer. They were all absolutely spot on…this is a book for everyone enthused about food to read. From the very first chapter you are hooked by the whole family party, spit roast lamb experience and it just made me want to get back home and dig a bbq pit directly there in my tiny garden. This book is remarkably honest and very well written and really makes you see just what madness and dedication it takes to run a successful restaurant. Go to Prune (go early for Sunday brunch) and eat her food. It is wonderful.

Ferran

I followed this tome with “Ferran: the inside story of El Bulli and the man who reinvented food”. OK – so you know who and what this book is about and whilst it is ever so sycophantic, it is a really good record of all things Ferran.

What is interesting about both these books is the way that these two untrained chefs became so respected and successful in their world. They both share some similar traits even if their approaches differ. The first is the influence of their childhood and upbringing. Don’t get me started on the whole psychological reasoning of this but take it from me that your childhood and early experiences really do shape these guys. This is about going back to the source of food from their upbringing whether it is a memory of family life (the lamb pit above) or the authentic cuisine of home. Both are loyal to the flavours of their youth.

Then, there is a dedication to the cause that is beyond most of our comprehension. It doesn’t really matter what drives it, but this industry requires a monumental dedication to the cause. It is almost at the expense of everything else. What fascinates me is how they both got to this place and what it is we need to do to influence the up and coming youth of today with this trait. Recently, Marcus Wareing was reported as lambasting young chefs who are “clueless and lazy” and predicting that if this attitude continues, there will be no future to the industry. He may very well be right.

Finally, there is a lovely quote in the Ferran book about creativity from Chef Jacques Maximin. He says: “Creativity means not copying” and this was an epiphany for Senor Adria. It is another lesson to be taught and encouraged from a young age. It is only now, in my old age, that I have the guts to have my own opinion and almost pride myself in approaching things from a different perspective. When I was younger I thought there was a right and a wrong but when it comes to art, there is just so much more.

Combine these three fundamentals and you have great chefs, and probably great artists, great musicians and so much more. So on that note – go create! bring something new to this world.

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Categories Food, Restaurants

Macaron Mania

June 24, 2012 //
8

Laduree are the masters of macarons

I have always been a fan of macarons and even in the face of tough competition from the cupcake world, I can honestly say I would rather indulge in a mouthful of macaron, especially if it is the salted caramel or liquorice flavour from Laduree.

So I jumped at the chance of joining my school teaching friends, Caroline & Andy, at a macaron making class this weekend on offer from Living Social. These online deals are a fascinating addition to new media marketing and I have been somewhat cynical about their value up until now.

Our voucher was for a morning class at On Cafe in Clapham, home of Loretta Liu a patisserie chef who has worked with a class line up of Michelin starred chefs and now sells her macaroons in Harvey Nicols and at the Southbank Real Food Festival. Loretta claims that teaching is her passion now, and set up the cookery school to share the secrets of perfect macaroon making.

I arrived just before the 10 am starting time to be told the class was delayed and I should have received an e mail to that effect, which clearly I didn’t. We waited for half an hour and the removal of some old refrigeration equipment before getting stuck in. Loretta herself really didn’t seem to be emanating the serene happy energy that I felt it would take to host this session. If her passion was for teaching she was hiding it well! She may not be a morning person but when you are fronting a session like this, you really do need to be on your game. It just all felt pretty negative: no taking photos of the demo, no questions during the demo, no specific answers, just guidelines for you to take home! And some very dirty aprons.

Generally I am an advocate of pushing the brand experience into this added value zone, but there were some lessons to be learnt here. It is imperative to think about who the customer is interacting with. Done well, you walk away with a great connection with the brand and a sense that you have had a special insight into the workings of the place, but the alternative will put you off for life.

I really must get a Kenwood mixer

So, back to the class. As with most bakery, there are some top tips to follow and once the demo started we were let into a few of the secrets. Who knew the egg white had to be 3 days old? or the art of knowing just when the meringue is at the right stage of whisking (3 minutes, peaks and very white whites)…oh! and don’t mix the ground almonds with the sugar. Add flavouring to the ganache or buttercream, not the macaron. All good stuff.

Loretta made it look so easy and in true Generation Game style, we were left to get on with our turns.

Piping perfect sizes is harder than it looks

It really did seem like we were open to some insight but that other secrets were not going to be revealed. We were shown how to pipe properly…after all the piping had been done! We were told that this method is not the one that chefs use. We were given a recipe with elements that we did not use that day as it might affect the success. This was all rather disconcerting.

Success!

Nevertheless, we did turn out pretty good first attempts and I am sure I will feel inclined to try again at my leisure. In fact, it would be great for the three of us to go into Caroline’s kitchen and try again. She is a wonderful baker in her own right running a cake making and catering business for many years and I reckon we could make good use of her facilities, having much more fun with the experimentation.

Now I have to figure out who to serve mine to and resist the temptation to eat them before the requisite 3-5 days in the fridge or 2 weeks in the freezer.

It’s a good job I am away for a few days.

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Categories Marketing
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